Poor luck on my first adjustment
 

LOTS of trouble with this procedure today. I couldn't disconnect the electrical connector on the tank and couldn't figure out how to plug all those hose connections. So I left the tank on and got to the valvetrain from the sides. Not enough space for a vertical screwdriver so it was "rotate and pray" until the setting was right. I figure if my .051 mm gauge fits but my .064 mm doesn't, I'm OK. But those are really floppy feeler gauges...trying to slide one in the mostly invisible spot it has to go is, as we used to say in timber country, "like trying to push a logging chain uphill".

NOW, the bike won't start. It tries, but won't catch and run. So, did I get the valves too tight or too loose? Checked spark plug, etc. I suspect measurement error.

HELP, Magic Forum!

You may not have a valve problem if you truly believe that your adjustment was done correctly. Check your fuel connections as you may not be getting fuel. Inspect the spark plug to see if it's wet and make sure that you're getting a spark.

Thanks for the reply...plug was a little wet (not dripping) and plenty of spark (ouch!). I had so much trouble manipulating feeler gauges that I don't trust my settings. The valves seemed WAY tight when I measured them before the adjustment. The bike ran fine. Did I get them too loose?

I suggest you do the valve adjustment again. Here are a few tips to help you with the fuel tank. ;)

Go to your local auto parts store and get some 1/4" vacuum caps. The following package contains 4, which are red in color. ;)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1167&ppt=N1171

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/.../47397-003.jpg

Work on the right side of the motorcycle.

Place an old blanket behind the fuel tank before you remove the bolt which holds the fuel tank in place.

Remove the bolt, and lift the rear of the fuel tank. Slide the blanket under the rear of the fuel tank.

Pull back on the tank to remove it from the frame. Rest the fuel tank on its left side on top of the blanket.

Disconnect the 2-pin connector which attaches to the fuel gauge.
Using a flat screwdriver, pry open the buckle connector which attaches to the fuel pump.

Remove the two hoses from the fuel tank.

Press the two buttons, and remove the fuel hose on the nipple which is pointing upward. Let the small amount of fuel drain from the loose hose. Place one of the 1/4" vacuum plugs over the nipple to seal the fuel tank.

Turn the fuel tank on its back. Press the two buttons, and remove the fuel hose on the other nipple. Let the small amount of fuel drain from the loose hose. Place one of the 1/4" vacuum plugs over the nipple to seal the fuel tank.

Remove the fuel tank from the motorcycle, and set it aside in an upright position. Now you will have enough room to adjust the intake valves. :)

Set all four valves to 0.08 mm. A little too loose is better than a little too tight. ;)

After the valve adjustment is done, replace the fuel tank by following the steps above in reverse. :)

OK, got it, Spud. I'll post when I get the new valve setting set. Thanks.

You're welcome, and good luck. :)

Spud's instructions are excellent (as usual!)

Just a bit of advice: Once you're done setting the valves, turn the engine over by hand so the valves are actuated. You'll see when you're on the base circle of the cam because neither the exhaust or intake valves are moving. Once you are at that point where both sets of valves are at their highest position (no load on any of the valves), insert your feeler gauge again and ensure you have the correct clearance.

As Spud said, looser is better than tighter, but too loose and you'll get a lot of valve train clatter.

Take your time, and take a break after adjusting the valves. Better to get it right than to do the job again.

ALRIGHTY THEN! Removed the tank and set the valves as per Spud. Learned a trick...take the feeler gauge out of the handle. It moves better that way. Set clearance tight with the .076 mm, and the .064 mm slid right in. Juggled all the hoses back into place and she started right up.

Thanks for all the help. I'll be changing oil and checking the chain tomorrow.

I'm glad you got the bike running again. :tup:

Yes, I always remove the feeler gauges from the holder. It is very important to do so with the smaller gauges, especially when used in cramped quarters. ;)

So when I turn the crank, and align marks in view hole on stater, must i turn clockwise or counter clockwise? One way is easier to turn, but I don't want to mess it up, you know.
Thanks for experienced advise here

Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise. I always turn the crankshaft toward the front of the motorcycle, in the same direction it turns while the engine is running. ;)

Thanks Spudrider
Its so nice to get the real truth.
Thats the opposite of what the coffee shop guys just told me.
Back out in the garage I go.

GSC - just want to suggest that having the valve covers off and watching the rockers as your rotate the engine counter-clockwise is helpful as well. That way you can tell when both intake and exhaust valves are unloaded by the cam lobes and verify by looking at the timing mark.

That's a good tip. :)

I always remove the valve covers first. ;) After I rotate the crankshaft to TDC, I reach up and wiggle the exhaust tappets to see if I am on the compression stroke. If the tappets are tight, the piston is on the exhaust stroke, so I rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees. :)

Rotation explanation
 

The reason it turns easier CCW (counter clockwise) is that when turning clockwise you are now engaging the roller clutch for the electric starter and trying to turn it as well.

It should not harm anything turning clockwise small amounts, but one should not do it a lot.

Congrats on your first valve adjustment!