2021 Xpro Titan DLX
 

Hi all,

Just added an X-Pro Titan DLX to my resume of China bikes and will use this thread to document its travels including order process, build, and mods

One thing I'd like to point out right off the bat is that unlike the well known bikes on this forum, ie.. Hawk, Brozz, TBR, Orion RXB.. the Xpro Titan DLX has much less of an online presence and i had to do some research across various threads to acquire a good idea of what i'd be getting..
Big Thanks to Plump Kibbles who has been invaluable during this process!

Here goes:

The Search:
After my son started feeling that he was outgrowing his Tao DBX1, we were fortunate enough to sell it 15 months after purchase for the same price of $850! He wanted to use my Brozz Recon and I agreed sending me on a search for something new.. I quickly found out that alot of bikes were out of stock and of the remaining bikes, Hawk, TBR, BSR Raven, Titan DLX and Orion RXB250L I had some work to do with regards to comparison..
I'm a bang for the buck kind of person as most on this forum probably are as well.. The Hawk was sitting around $1700, The TBR at $1700, The Raven at $1600, the Titan at $1800 and then the new RXB250 at a whopping $2600.. Yes it does have the extra gear, counterbalance and some other upgrades but at a 40% premium i ruled it out, plus it wouldnt be available until after December, nope..
I then narrowed it down between the Raven 250 and the Titan DLX.. for the extra $200 the Titan to me presented the much better deal, with the better suspension, swingarm, frame, engine being overhead cam with a bit more power out of the box, and about 30 pounds lighter, it soon became the clear winner. For those who may not know, the Xpro Titan DLX is basically the same as an Orion RXB250L (223cc version) with the exception of not having adjustable forks and rear shock (other than pre-load)

Ordering:
PowersportsMax and Amazon had the bike in stock.. PSM at $1800 delivered and Amazon at $2080 delivered.. no brainer..
I read good stuff about PSM so i ran with it..I did try to call them several times but never got through, not sure why, but i was able to get a response via email.
I ordered on Saturday October 2nd and the bike was delivered on Friday October 8th.. pretty amazing turn-around time

Delivery:
The bike was delivered in the standard metal crate.. it was beaten up with a couple metal supports bent and the cardboard in taters.. the most concerning thing was when i noticed oil all over the bike.. I checked the whole bike over while on the truck and did not find any frame or engine damage.. my theory is that they must have turned the crate upside down or on its side at some point allowing the shipping oil to leak out onto the rear most parts of the bike including the seat, ugh.. I took pics (attached) including some damages and sent to PSM to ask what they will do..
The damages include a scuffed up fork cap and a couple deep scratches on top of the exhaust rear section.

Assembly:
Pretty easy to assemble..
-connect up the wire harnesses in front and then attach the headlight assembly to the triple tree using the forward 2 bolts that secure the handlebars
- attach the handlebars using 4 supplied allen bolts with lock-nuts
- install the front wheel with larger spacer on clutch side. make sure to grease the axle and I slathered on either side of the hub generously.. separate the brake pads using a screwdriver or like to allow space for the rotor.. attach the caliper.. attach the axle and wheel and tighten
- attach the pair of dangling wires to the front brake onto each metal terminal. I believe this is what requires you to hold the front brake when starting
- attach the left and right mirrors
- attach the shock mount at 2 connection points. be sure to slather grease on these points before tightening
- attach the rear license/light assembly under the fender. I used electric tape to wrap the hanging wires and then zip tied up to the top frame rail
- attach the left and right side plastics
- remove the graphic protective covering
- attach the battery terminals.. this one caused me alot of grief due to me not paying attention to the terminal stamps.. the positive lead just happened to be closest to the negative side terminal (throttle side) and the negative lead was closest to the positive terminal.. in my anxious state i didnt pay attention to the + and - stamps and just connected as i assumed and pop goes the fuse.. i was baffled.. i popped a few more fuses while disconnecting and searching for loose or frayed or wires touching the frame and pop pop each time.. i finally i kicked myself when i realized i had the terminals switched.. dont make that same goofball mistake, wasted several hours there.

Pre-Maintenance:
- I drained what was left in the engine which amounted to prob half a quart and then replaces with 1qt Rotella 15w40. Note.. unlike the Brozz/Hawk/etc there is no bottom drain bolt and you drain from the clutch side removing the spring-loaded filter screen.
- I tightened some spokes that were loose. I have a spoke tool on order as i still need to true the front wheel
- Oiled the foam air filter with K&N Filter Oil
- I attempted to adjust the valves and by turning the crank and peering in the peephole you will see a dot or small line.. i rotated a couple of times and each time grabbed the rocker but it was tight. As i use the grab method to know when its at TDC, i will need to go back and do this another time where i remove the plug and insert something in the head to see when the piston is at the top and then adjust
- I adjusted the pre-load on the rear shock by turning the ring down and then locking with the lock-ring
- applied Dawn to the seat to scrub and wash out the oil residue and cleaned the other parts of the bike that were oiled up

Start-Up/Initial Ride:
You need to hold the front brake when starting. After that she started on the 2nd attempt. I put her on choke but was able to take off soon after and she maintained an idle.
The bike sounds very good as is, not too quiet and not too loud. I'd say its slightly quieter than the exhaust i have on my Brozz
The shifting was a bit notchy but overall the short initial ride was fine, no issues, she ran great. I was keeping her under 6k rpm and will continue that for the first 500 miles. I believe redline is a bit higher than the Brozz and can go up to 10k rpm. I only travelled in the community so only hit about 35mph.

Plans:
I plan to do the following next:
- adjust the valves soon
- remove the rear axle and grease the axle and hubs
- grease the swingarm
- replace the stock plug with an NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9
- replace the stock carb probably with either a VM26 or PE30. not sure which is better yet (@Megadan, feel free to chime in)
- gut the stock exhaust
- replace the fork oil with 15W oil
- cut off some of the rear plate assembly for a cleaner look
- i may replace the chain with an X-Ring 428 chain.. the stock chain does look good but not sure if its an o/x ring or just a fancy gold color
- get her registered, hopefully not to difficult as Plump Kibbles may have been the guinea pig for this process here in VA

I will add to this thread as i learn more about the bike.. thanks

Great introduction to the bike. My friends and I decided same as you and plan to buy 5 at the same time. Different colors so we won't jump on the wrong bike lol. I'm also interested in your carb swapping experiences. Please keep us up to date.:thanks:

Went on a longer ride yesterday, about 30 miles.. a mix of street, gravel and a dirt trail.
Overall, she is performing great. The 30+ pounds of weight loss compared to the Brozz makes itself easily known. On the dirt trail there is a very steep and long down hill that i went on and if it weren't for the shipping oil that made its way to the rear brake, it was fine.. going up the hill was very fun, trucked up in first gear very easily with plenty of power on tap. As im limiting the revs to 6k at this time, there will be more to be had once i pass the 500mi mark and start opening her up.
With regards to the carb, I will probably swap to the VM26 and run a 100 main (i believe stock is 95) and center the clip on the needle.
You can mod the stock carb easily by cutting grooves into the bolt heads and change the main but the needle wont be adjustable (assuming same carb as the Brozz PZ30)
Also, to update regarding the damages, PSM responded back and claim that they dont have replacement parts on hand and offered $30 and i accepted.

That's awesome! Depending on the name brand, i'm sure there is one that you could have gotten that would have costed as much as all 5 Titans..
I can tell right off the bat that this bike will easily do everything i will ever ask of it at a fraction of the cost.. and although underpowered, you really dont need a ton of power for casual dirt riding (non-MX racing).. and its nice to be able to use all of the available power at any time without worry of getting in too much danger.

Today I adjusted the valves to .004/.004. They were super tight, maybe at .001 or less.
While i was at it, i fabricated a pair-valve blockoff plate and capped the vacuum line on the intake manifold. This allows easier access to work on the exhaust valve.
Some notes about the valve adjustment..
You can remove the side plastics and then unbolt the tank and simply slide it backwards and out of your way.
I found it hard to find TDC as the mark is a fairly small vertical line. To be safe, i removed the spark plug and turned the crank until the piston was at the top of the cylinder and then cross-referenced that with the TDC line on the crank.
Once i did that i could slightly wiggle the rocker arms and knew i had it.
You will need to unbolt the horn mechanism and also unhook the 2 pair valve lines for in order to access the front valve.
Remove the valve caps with a 15/16" open end wrench
Loosen the locknuts from each valve stem.. mine were on super tight
Loosen the valve stem to allow access to your feeler guage
I used a deck screw with a wire cap in order to tighten the valve stem down onto the feeler guage.. thanks @JerryHawk, read that in an old post of yours
Since i wanted to have them set at .004/.004, i tightened down on a .005 feeler guage and then locked the nut.. this allowed a .004 to gently slide in with slight rubbing but would not allow the .005 again, which is what you want
I put everything back together and started her up, sounds nice and healthy and now i have a little leeway as they may tighten back up a bit between now and when i do again at 500mi

I am so JEALOUS!! Love the color!

We're buying the Xpro Titan, just the street legal model. Titled for trips to Mexico.

Added some grip puppies to the stock grips.. I also dug out my old PZ30 from the Brozz and a bag of jets.. plan to shim the needle and increase the main on the stock PZ30 for now to get it out of the lean condition its shipped with

Those grip puppies work great. I've installed them on all my bikes. Really help with the vibrations plus with my big hands it feels more comfortable.

Yes, i put them on for the comfort and they work great.. and come to think of it, i remember heavily deliberating the choice to go with the Brozz in the past and one big factor was the fact that it is counterbalanced and shouldn't vibrate like crazy. but to be honest, i don't really notice any extra vibrations on this non-counterbalanced engine.. so its not that big of a deal afterall..

Worked on the carb today as i could see from the plug she was lean on idle and hard to start. A couple of discoveries:
- the stock PZ30 has a metal cap over the idle screw, you can twist it off with plier to reveal the idle screw (so stupid imo).
- there is no idle air/fuel mixture screw
- pilot is a 37 / main is a 102

Since I had my old stock PZ30 from the Brozz, i decided to use it instead. I used 2 shim washers under the needle, kept the 37 pilot (Brozz was a 34) and changed the main to a 110. Turned the a/f out 2.5 turns.
Started right up and a short ride reveals it to be much snappier and no deceleration popping!

There should be a cap over the idle/mixture screw right next to the bowl on the bottom of the carb. Some are plastic and some are brass. The brass plug usually comes right out just from trying to drill it.

Thanks, didnt realize that. in any case, it was easier to just go with my stock Brozz PZ30 which was in practically new condition.
At this point the only other performance mod im looking into is removed the stock cat and the 4 degree timing key.. not sure if there is any benefit to going with an aftermarket carb at this or that point?

Really excited to hear your experience in the carb tuning area. You mentioned there is no air/fuel mixture screw and then mentioned turning a/f out 2.5 turns. What are you turning 2.5 turns? Or just a keyboard mistake? Thanks

I had my old stock PZ30 from my other bike, Brozz Recon (which im currently running a PE30 carb on) and i just used this carb instead on the Titan as its the same exact carb but with the a/f screw exposed.. i adjusted the a/f on this carb and its on the bike now and running well.