My Current List of Mods (Vader 125)
 

Alright, so after receiving the same questions over-and-over regarding the mods I have done to my Vader, I decided to finally put a list together so that you guys can see what mods I have done to the bike and where you can get these mods at.

Here is my current list for the Boom Vader 125:


- Front Sprocket: 428-16t (Fit 17mm Shaft) (~$8)
Link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-A...lVEApO&vxp=mtr


- Headlight Bulbs: H6 BA20D Type 5W LED (~$9)
Link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-H6-BA20D-...oAAMXQLs5RrkpK


- Mikuni 26mm Carburetor + Intake Pipe + Pod Filter (~$38-$43)
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/GooDeal-Carbu...+Pit+Dirt+Bike


- Mikuni Jets – Includes Jet Sizes From 88 – 125 (I’m currently running a 120) (~$10)
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Wings-Mikuni-...ds=mikuni+jets


- Fuel Petcock – This is optional, but recommended if you decide to buy the 26mm Mikuni since there is no built-in petcock in the carburetor. (~$5)
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/INLINE-VALVE-...KART+DIRT+BIKE


- UNI Breather Filter Push in Type 5/16 Inch Universal – Used on the crankcase ventilator hose (~$13)
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Breather-Filt...Inch+Universal


- RSC Clutch Lever – Shorty (~$105)
Link:
http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/i...al/levers.html

- Brembo Lefthand Master Cylinder/Lever w/ Built-In Reservoir.
This was included in a Grom Junction Valve kit that I ordered from TacticalMindz.com . However, DO NOT ORDER THE JUNCTION VALVE KIT. I could not get the Junction Valve to work correctly in the rear master cylinder. It kept blowing out under high pressure. If you want a Stunt Handbrake, find a Left Hand Master Cylinder on eBay.


- 65” Steel Braided Brakeline (From Lefthand Master Cylinder directly back to rear brake)
There is no longer a link for the Brake Line I ordered. I paid $15 for it, but expect to pay ~$50-70 for a line that long.


- Exhaust: AR Low Mount Exhaust (For 2014 Grom) (~$130)
**HEADS UP: This exhaust requires extra modifying to fit! I had to relocate my kickstand because of it! BUYER BEWARE!
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Aodonly.../dp/B01BHQ7E6S


- Stunt Bar / 12 Bar
I built mine at work. If you’d like a 12 Bar, check out uptrade7784 aka “402 Innovations.” He builds Stunt Bars for the Omaha Grom Squad (including Fooligan himself). They look nice and are very well priced (Currently @ $230).
http://www.ebay.com/usr/uptrade7784?...p2047675.l2559




There is the list! I’ll continue to add to the list as I continue to modify the bike.

And if you guys were curious about my Hawk 250, the only mods I have done to it are: 16t Front Sprocket, DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug, and exhaust baffle removal. I’m also using a larger main jet in the stock carb, but I can’t remember what size at the moment. The Jet Kit that I listed for the Vader 125 Mikuni Carb also works with the stock carb on the Hawk 250.

Thanks for putting this list together, maxi! First things I'm going to do, almost right away, is change the bulbs, carb, and sprocket. :thanks:

No problem! Those would be great options to start with!

So whats your top speed with the mods? Are the led lights for the startor issue i heard of?

I'm still waiting for my Vader to be delivered. In the meantime I've ordered the headlight bulbs, new clutch and break levers, crossbar, pod air filter and mikuni jets. I'm going to up jet the stock carb and hope that makes a difference. I'll probably mod the exhaust as well. Thank you for the list and vids!!

But where are the pics of this mad ass machine?:hmm:

Youtube. He has a bunch of Vader videos

Of course, but I would like to see _MaXiPaD_'s mean machine with all of it's mods. :tup:

He has some better photos on his Instagram. @maxipadmoto

Exhaust
 

Many comments about paint that burns off after a few uses...is this true?
Do you have another recommendation for an exhaust?
Are there exhausts that aren't annoyingly loud? Noise is fine, especially deep noice but nothing yelpy...hope that makes sense. Thanks,

Between the Mikuni carburetor and the Chimera intake system, which one would you guys pick and why?

Same exercise between the Dual Exhaust produced by MNTHBX or the
https://www.mnnthbx.com/product/dual-underbody-exhaust/

Yoshumura RS-9
https://www.mnnthbx.com/product/yosh...arbon-exhaust/

Or if you have a better recommendation, let me know.

I am just looking for help since I am new to this! Thanks!

I bought this exhaust for my bike and gave it away after 2 rides. It was obnoxiously loud and cost me about 4mph on the top end. My bike sounds and performs much better with the modded factory exhaust, YMMV of course.

What about between these 2 exhausts...

Same exercise between the Dual Exhaust produced by MNTHBX or the
https://www.mnnthbx.com/product/dual-underbody-exhaust/

Yoshumura RS-9
https://www.mnnthbx.com/product/yosh...arbon-exhaust/

?

Dual exhaust on a single cylinder engine makes as much sense as sticking 2 carbs on the intake. Given the marginal performance gain, I can't justify spending more for an exhaust system than what a replacement engine costs.

Makes an insane amount of noise anyways. I am leaning towards the Yoshi RS-2 or RS-9. Do you think I'll have an issue installing either on a Vader or a Venom?

Have you heard of someone replacing the back sprocket on these to a 30?

you are going to have bend those exhaust to get them to work on a bike a bit and for the sprocket yes you can get a smaller tooth for it. i also put a link for the exhaust i have on my vader.

https://www.steadygarage.com/store/p...cket-428-chain

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Low-Mount-Ex...cAAOSw~XpZOq2X

Charging issues
 

I used the the suggestion of changing the headlights but when I was in there I found a bad ground from the turn signal the shrink wrap was blocking the connection. Problem solved I get a steady 14.5 volts to battery before I only got 11.9 to 12.3v I am going to swap the bulbs again and see if it was the bulbs or the ground I thought it was the ground.

Great first post, thanks Susuk600!

A lot of people are having a similar issue with their "Grom Clone" and this will help them out :tup:

If your gonna spend big bucks on an exhaust system do your homework, and even then you ma end up with something you don't like. I pissed away $130 for the AR Racing exhaust, I won't make that mistake twice. As for changing the rear sprocket, I wouldn't bother. Your gonna see a more dramatic change in performance by changing the front sprocket, which is cheaper and easier to swap out. Changing the front sprocket takes about 5 minutes, changing the rear will take about 45 minutes if you include realigning the chain.

Update to charging issue
 

I rechecked the charging system I put the halogen bulbs back in turned the bike on I was already down to 11.7 volts bike started voltage 11.9 at idle when reving the motor 12.3. I put the led bulbs back voltage was over 12 and after warming up the voltage was 14.5 steady on idle when reving went down to 14.2 then back to 14.5 on idle. So definately change the headlights to led they were like 8 bucks. I also put a 15t front sprocket it improved performance 1st gear 15 mph 2nd gear 25 mph 3rd gear I can get up to 40 then 4th gear wide open I get 48 it's not getting enough gas. So I have to work on carb , intake and exhaust . I also have to tell you I'm over 200 pounds downhill I hit 54. As long as I solved the electrical problem I am a lot happier with the bike. I almost changed stator , voltage regulator and cdi.

Thanks...I was talking to Jake about this, but worth asking you as well:

If I change the 14t front sprocket to a 17t front sprocket, I will increase the top end, right?
If I do the above and decrease the back sprocket from its current 38t to say a 31t, it should increase the top end speed even more, right?

What about if I do the 17t up front and go from a 38t to say, a 40t?

Thanks,

I have a 30 day return on the RS-2 exhaust...if it's a no-go, I return it and move on with my life. Thing is, I have seen so much shit and information about all kinds of exhaust, my head is fried. Don't know what to pick anymore. I was between the dual-exhaust and the RS-9, but the dual exhaust is too loud and too much for such small bike and I lost interest in the RS-9 because it came up from the tail and I was trying to open up that area as much as possible. Then I found the RS-2..

You'll increase top end up to the point where the bike's rear wheel horsepower, and aerodynamic drag prevent the bike from going any faster. My best top speed is a gps verified 64mph on a level straight with no headwind. The bike won't go any faster than that, even if I put a 100 tooth sprocket on the front. I've tried both 16t and 17t front sprockets and I stuck with the 17t because I can run at top speed with a lower engine rpm.

Changing sprockets.

thanks for the insight..if you don't mind me asking, how much do you weigh and how tall are you? I am 6'0, 177 LBS and stock, i've hit 65 MPH redlining.

5'7"@183lbs, I was at 200lbs before I bought the bike and I decided to lose some weight before buying it because shedding pounds off the ride, or rider is the cheapest way to improve performance. Also, don't believe your speedo it'll probably be 5-7mph optimistic, which also makes the odometer incorrect. My speedo is 5mph off, and the odo is off by 9%. Anywho, regarding the exhaust, I suggest a cheap muffler with a repackable core. You can experiment with different packing materials and tune it to sound however you want. I have a $40 Emgo Dunstall on my Breva that I've packed with #2 and #4 steel wool. I packed the little monster's muffler with leftover exhaust wrap, 1/4" hardware cloth and capped it with a db killer from my aprilia. It sounds way better than the AR Racing exhaust and it didn't cost me anything.

We will see if this exhaust is even installable (Yoshi.) I ordered it today. Ultimately, want to move onto a Grom, and if the mechanic can bend it the first go around with this bike, he can probably do it again when I get a Grom later down the road.

I also ordered a new Gold chain (428 110,) a 17T sprocket and a Mikuni carb.

I will provide photos. Thanks to you guys for your help. Will keep you posted.

Gas Tank
 

I need to replace the Gas tank on this thing...(another issue I have had with this bike, among many.)

Does anyone know where I can get one? Or maybe measurements or any kind of info?

Thanks,

Why would you need to replace the gas tank? It's an extremely small tank to begin with. Maybe try taking it off or try out a tank from a pit bike. No clue how you'd get a gas tank for this that would function and look normal and not oddly out of place. Good luck!

I agree dont know why a new tank would be needed unless somehow they have laid the bike down causeing some sort of puncture to it

the mechanic says the gas tank float level indicator (I don't know what that is) is broken / no longer attached to the original welding. The bike leaks gas when it is on its kick stand...when I move it upright, to remove the kickstand and sit on it, is when it leaks a bunch more. Over a few days, it just completely leaks out all the gas...he says it isn't a hole or it isn't punctured. I have photos of the gas tank if anyone wants to take a look and let me know if maybe they know where I can get a new one. The tanks I have seen online have different screw openings, etc, etc. I have had NO luck with this bike...it's been one problem after another. I've had this bike since May and every other week, there is a new issue..absolute nightmare.

Is it leaking from the tank or from the carburetor? If it's the tank I would find where it is leaking from and patch. If it's coming from the carb then your float may need to be adjusted or float valve is leaking. Will it leak when you have the petcock off?

Thanks for the quick reply...I asked the mechanic and will let you know what he says. Since I live in Miami, he does not speak english so I have to do the Google translate and wait for him to reply when I hit send. Had I known these bikes had these assortment of issues, I would have never purchased it. This is a bike for people who have experience in repair and modifying bikes within their home or place of business. Taking the bike to the mechanic every other week is not what I had in mind. Also, at this point, I am not even sure if he is taking me for a run for my money..

He said it is dripping from the tank float...

Specifically between the joint / tie / connection between the metal plates where it is welded and held together.

Well I'd try and patch the leak if you can find it before finding a new tank but that's just me. And not really having a good sense in how or where it's leaking is preventing me from understanding the exact problem and the best course of action to take. If you can post a pic of the leak that would help. But I'd try patching it via epoxy or some glue and patch combo. Try your local autoparts store and ask someone about fixing a leak in a gas tank they should have something. Wether it's a long term fix or a short term it should save you cash until can locate a new tank or just sell the bike. :hehe: they should have something tho I mean they have headgasket fix and piston ring fix in a bottle and thats all mechanical based problems.:doh:

I will try and see what I can find at the autoparts store...but it seems that it may be a weld job, which is out of my league.

If you find a guy brave enough or possibly dumb enough to weld on a gas tank, I would watch from a distance.:lmao:

Hahaha! But based on what he told me, you would think it would have to be replaced, right? Have any idea where I could get a part?

A new tank sounds like a good idea. If you're at all handy try to remove the tank from the bike and attempt to locate the exact spot where it's leaking. Empty out all the gas and wipe down the tank so its free from any gas and the film it leaves behind. Then put some liquid in the tank make sure to use isopropyl alcohol in the tank, not a lot a few onces should do the trick.as it won't leave a residue behind and can burn in the engine. Then slowly turn the tank so the seam is vertical and then keeping with the seam vertical rotate the tank slowly until you find the leak. Once you found 1 leak make sure there aren't anymore. After the leak is found use the repair stuff i mentioned.
http://www.edgextremesports.com/fuel...saAh5cEALw_wcB
Permatex can be found all over. Walmart, autozone, O'Reiley's. I think they make great products that work. Follow the steps on the packaging and you shouldnt have a problem. Taking care of that leak. Best of luck!:tup:

Please seek education. I used to safely weld fuel tanks on a regular basis. We dry the tanks outs with absorbing mats. Cut down for moto tanks. Run compressed air in the tank for 30 minutes through the fuel line or petcock. This dries out any remaining fuel and blows the fuel vapors out the filler hole. Then we purge the tank with carbon dioxide or argon gas to be doubly sure that all the fuel vapors. Then weld. Fuel vapors explosive. The liquid fuel burns. Eliminate these two variables and all is good for welding. Fuel doesn't absorb into metal like oils.

Read the post and consider the issues on the table. Yes I am aware you can weld on a gas tank, just as you described. But the majority of people who may read this would see "yeah weld it up" and then bam someone's unnecessarily injuried because what they read on the internet and didn't second guess it. martim is looking for a way to fix the tank, and doesn't speak the same language as the guy doing the work, see how things could get alittle out of hand here. So next time, instead of being condescending towards me ;"please seek education", have some respect towards everyone on this form so it can be a place we can all enjoy. Thank you.:)