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-   -   New Ice Bear Champion issues. (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32966)

GonzoX 07-05-2023 02:13 PM

New Ice Bear Champion issues.
 
Hello.

Been gone from here for years (2012). Now I am back (2023). Gave away my Ice Bear Bobber and got a Hyosung GV250. Just purchased and received my 2023 Ice Bear Champion-125 PBZ125-2 and was wondering if you guys could help me with some questions I have.

1) License plate bracket is too big for Texas size plates. Was probably going to drill at least one more hole in it or try to bend the bracket. Anyone else have this problem? How did you fix yours?

2) Plan on ordering a magnetic oil drain plug from Ebay or Amazon. Anybody know what the threading is on the original one? Any suggestions?

3) Throttle control has a lot of play in it. Very annoying. Is it just my bike or all of them? How did you fix yours?

4) Engine seems to sputter a lot as stock. Are there any guides online as to how to adjust my carb or should I seek a professional for that?

5) Shifting is a royal PITA on this bike. I am used to having a clutch. I noticed that then entire bike jolts when I upshift and downshifting with the heel part only works if I slam it hard with my heel or foot. It looks so easy for others on Youtube. Am I missing something?

Thanks for any help or suggestions on the matter. And I am always open to advice regarding anything else about this bike. Kind of wish I had gotten an automatic scooter from Motobuys but maybe next year I can do that and sell my Champion.

JerryHawk250 07-05-2023 03:32 PM

Welcome Back! :hi:
I'm sure you can adjust the slack out of the throttle cable at the throttle.

As far as the sputtering, i'm positive that is because the idle mixture is probably set too lean. You will need to drill out the brass or aluminum cap plug over the idle mixture screw to richin up the idle mixture. More than likely the main jets are under sized as well.

The shifting issue is probably because of a fast idle that is engaging the auto clutch. Lower the idle a little and that should clear that issue up.

GonzoX 07-06-2023 08:52 PM

Thank you JerryHawk250.

Adjusted the throttle cable as you suggested and that fixed the issue.

Not having a good morning as I tried my key in the steering lock and it broke off with very little effort. This is not my first Ice Bear as my 2012 Dong Fang Bobber 250 had the same issue with cheap brittle metalurgy. I remember the rust issue on the wheel spokes for leaving the bike out in the rain for just one day. Oh well. It's an adventure. At least the Champion uses aluminium wheels like my Hyosung.

Will have to go to see a locksmith in Killeen, TX to see if I can get two new keys made.

Got the stuff to re-drill the license plate bracket but nobody in town sells a center punch. Doesn't anybody fix their own stuff anymore? Might have to order one.

My main issue is how hard it is to downshift. Like a dummy, I did not check the oil level and it is a bit low, so I got oil today. I hope that will help.

I did take auto shop in 1981 LOL, but I do not feel comfortable messing with any carb. I checked youtube and a Makuni carb is a drop in and the guy said that stock carbs are trash. So I see spending $30 or so for one on Ebay.

I did order a magnetic drain plug for $7 online so I hope it fits. I see new rear shocks in my future as well. This is a work in progress.

JerryHawk250 07-07-2023 07:46 AM

The Mikuni carb is not a drop in carb. You will still have to tune it. The reason most people say the stock carb is junk is because they don't have the skill or patients to take the time to slot the bowl screws to gain access the the jets or know that the idle mixture screw is hidden behind a brass plug that can easily be drilled out. I've tune several stock carbs and ran just as good as any of the other aftermarket carbs. There will be no performance difference between the two carbs if they are both tuned properly.

TominMO 07-07-2023 09:31 AM

As far as the shifting goes, if you are using the "oil" it came with and it is just a shipping oil, changing to a good non-synthetic oil may help. Plus break-in time of course.

For the steering lock issue, contact the seller and explain about the key. Ask them to send you a couple of blanks that you can take to the locksmith, in case he does not have a blank that will work.

GonzoX 07-07-2023 03:00 PM

Thanks guys.

I did have a key made locally today. Had a hell of a time finding a locksmith that could actually do it. I did not call Motobuys because I figured they would just send me another key or blank key made out of the same cheap brittle pot metal. Not going to waste my time with that.

I will try to tune my carb myself. I just felt like I may screw something up if I drill the plug out.

The oil change is coming. My owners manual says that the factory has put in a good quality oil and listed the proper USA replacement. I will use the bike for a month before I do my first oil change. Manual states not to go over 30mph (sticker on bike says 25mph) for the first 300 miles. Looks like the back roads for me for a while.

krat 07-07-2023 04:32 PM

The owner's manual is lying to you! The oil they ship is crap. It needs to be changed immediately! FortNine did through testing on factory supplied oils and the Chinese stuff was filthy, brand new in an unused engine.

The best carb tuning site on you tube is the Motocheez channel and you will have to look back in the playlist archives. He has pretty much universal instructions. So does 49ccScoot.

TominMO 07-07-2023 07:09 PM

Agree on immediately changing the oil. Even really good oil, after a few miles. That's when you will have the most metal shavings, right at the start. It's worth a few bucks to get them out of there.

GonzoX 07-07-2023 10:21 PM

Wow, did not know that about the oil. It does look clear but I will change it in about a week once my magnetic drain plug gets here. Thanks for the heads up guys.

drbuzzard 08-12-2023 08:26 PM

i saw your post and just joined the forum. i got my IceBear champion on 7-24. the first thing i did was change the oil, i used valvoline 4t 10 w40. then i cleaned out the tank, it was very rusty so i ended up cleaning it twice. i used a carb for a Honda CT110, the petcock is on the carb though i am having an issue with surging while cruising. i went to a locksmith and had a third key cut, i bought a 17t counter shaft sprocket, a shinko 120-90-10 tire for the rear, and a RK chain. i'll install them when the new rim arrives. i bought a Wolfman small rollie, its on the rack. i replaced the heel/ toe shifter with a toe shifter i had from my Golden turd CT 70 build

TominMO 08-12-2023 09:05 PM

Gonzo, are you rolling off the throttle when shifting? If not, you should find it shifts easier with the lowest possible rpm.

GonzoX 08-13-2023 05:41 AM

Yes I am rolling off in first and it idles in first.

But since then I have had much more pressing issues with the bike. It runs way too rich and my plug is black as coal. Could never get it to run lean or normal. I even tried two other cheap chinese carbs with same issues. I just do not have "the touch" even tough I reasearched many y-tube videos on the subject.

I have ordered a Mikuni 20mm carb as I heard good things about them.

In the end I will either give away or sell my Champion to my brother cheap as he wants it.

Next year I will be getting the Amigo version with a normal clutch and normal shift pattern.
I think I would be much happier with that. Too bad the Amigo goes for $500 more though but I think it will be much more fitting for me. Thanks for all the help guys.

XLsior 08-13-2023 06:23 AM

I dont have access to either and CT70s are rare here Down Under...

But having a look at this YT comparison video....

I'm not that convinced the Amigo is better / worth the premium price.

I'd be inclined to get another champion and put the $500 to a bigger better engine clutch or semi auto....


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFkO4pIt1Rs

Kleiss1 03-15-2024 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 (Post 397177)
The Mikuni carb is not a drop in carb. You will still have to tune it. The reason most people say the stock carb is junk is because they don't have the skill or patients to take the time to slot the bowl screws to gain access the the jets or know that the idle mixture screw is hidden behind a brass plug that can easily be drilled out. I've tune several stock carbs and ran just as good as any of the other aftermarket carbs. There will be no performance difference between the two carbs if they are both tuned properly.

Is there a diagram as to which plugs do what on the carb? Thanks

Davidmk123 03-16-2024 09:11 AM

change front sprocket to the 17 tooth


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