Clutch not disengaging for Zongshen ZS200GY-A
 

Another issue for the ol' Zong :D

I'm finding that the clutch is not disengaging properly making it hard to get into neutral when stopped at lights etc.

I thought this might be that the cable needs adjusting. I had a look at it and it looks pretty tight, there's not so much free play at the lever and I'm a bit nervous about tightening it any further as I don't want the clutch to be permanently engaged. (Is there any way to tell if it is engaged or not? I've looked at the clutch arm but I'm finding it really hard to tell if it's under pressure or not from the cable).

So... I was thinking perhaps the clutch plates need replacing.

Anyone know what parts I'd need to order to do this??

Wear limit of "fraction": 2.6mm
There's 2 type in these pushrod machine:
Ref to VP-1019 http://catalog.vesrah.co.jp/list/street_clutch.asp
http://gd4.alicdn.com/imgextra/i4/65...!650603356.jpg
http://gd1.alicdn.com/imgextra/i1/65...!650603356.jpg
From memory "std" 200 uses the upper (7 fraction/ 6 metal).
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In most case change "fraction" ONLY will get the job done.
FRACTION
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39176366379
METAL
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39478351810
ASSEMBLY
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39837275401
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http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?6812 had some tips about changing plates.
Non std method saving 100 000+km old bike:
http://www.motorfans.com.cn/forum.ph...authorid=75082

Legend, thanks again HB!

I'm just wondering - is there an easy way I can tell for sure which parts I might need?

I'm thinking hopefully I can just open up the clutch and take a look without really changing anything?

The bike is my only means of transport to work so didn't want to keep it out of action for any longer than necessary, so would be good to order the parts and then keep riding it while I wait for them to arrive :)

UNLESS u had x-ray vision
http://static.comicvine.com/uploads/...1382-x-ray.jpg
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http://www.ehow.com/info_8739449_rea...-slipping.html
Open the case.
It's time to clean the centrifugal oil filter (Diesel / kerosene) in high mileage CG.
"Special tool" for the 4-slot nut. Find out which is which (Regular/ oversize plate , 4/5/6 column, big/ small hole). Measure (spring /"fraction" /metal ) what's F***ed.
Re-assembly it.
NEW oil (the regular 15W40 CHEAP "diesel oil") may improves a lot. Unsuitable oil maybe used by previous owner.
Wait the new parts arrive by post & install them in spare time. The "fraction" NEEDS oil bath b4 install !!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnPktdVsIyU

Hahah, great comic!

Thanks again for the info. I'm actually not finding the clutch slip, it's dragging if anything. The hardest part is finding neutral, but if I squeeze super tight on the lever I can sometimes get it. So I'm thinking I probably just need to tighten the cable a bit, although there doesn't look like there's much play left. Am just nervous about tightening it too much and having the clutch slightly on all the time..

Well, time to tinker I guess!

Remember that there is a cable adjustment at the lever and at the clutch linkage. Try for 1/8" to 1/4" freeplay between the lever and perch, and then adjust as necessary.

I agree with Weld; I think your clutch cable is too tight. I suggest you loosen the clutch cable as Weld suggested. ;)

Thanks guys. But I'm a little confused, if it's too tight why am I having trouble disengaging? Shouldn't it just make the clutch slip? I don't have any clutch slippage when shifting gears but rather drag so I can't quite get into neutral.

But then equally I probably have less than 1/8" free play at the lever so hesitant to tighten further..

Or... Maybe it's not drag. I don't really know if I'm using the right term.

What happens is that I sit idling at the lights in 1st and want to put it into neutral but every time it skips over and slips straight into 2nd. Same if I try to shift down into neutral, just skips over into 1st.

Occasionally I can't get it to go out of 1st at all.

And once or twice I've noticed I've managed to get the neutral light to come on, only to have the bike stall when I let go the clutch as it's really still in 1st!

You could be dealing with two issues. Have you changed the oil lately? What did you use for oil?

Great price: http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/...1111654/detail

This is where I lost the use of my '09 TMEC and bought the '13 model back in May. I think I was having clutch issues, but the other problem was the fact that my engine was welded to the frame, so not sure if it was cable length issues instead.

Worse case scenario, Zonganaut, if you cannot find clutch plates easily, how difficult would it be to find a replacement engine in NZ? Depending on what part of the country you are in here in the US, or if you have connections to a distributor ;), these bikes are a dime a dozen. What is the market there?

I doubt that the clutch requires replacement, but even if it did, it's a piece of cake. Replacement friction discs are easily obtained from a variety of sources.

Nice spot! Will be getting some of that, cheers!

Haven't touched the oil yet Weldangrind, so will put a change on the near term to-do list.

Have been working 7 days a week for the last month so not had a chance to do much yet - Literally not enough hours in the day! :zzz:

I think the markets for anything in NZ are usually horrendously expensive, unless you count No. 8 wire..

Would like to fix up the zong so that's she's running smoothly. Hopefully do-able although I have noticed I could prob buy a new bike for the same price :D

Like Weldangrind says hopefully I do t need a new clutch. Will take the slack out of the chain and change the oil and see what that does!