Top 10 Grom Clone Mods
 

OK. Its the top 10 Grom mods from motorcycle.com. It will give you some good ideas for your clone.

https://www.motorcycle.com/top10/top...grom-mods.html

Good list , I'm sort of surprised that new bars didn't make the list ,that seems to be one of the very first mods most people make ,the stock bars aren't very good for either stunting or track duty .The other thing is due to the Grom using a linkage type shifter where the China clones use a conventional design, most of the rear sets for Groms will not work without sometimes serious levels of modification / adaptation, or so i have been told. I had looked at a set to order and try installing on my Vader but before that could happen ,I got "hurricane michael'd" pretty badly which has drastically changed my project plans and budgets for the immediate future . I guess it is application based but I also personally feel like the "big rotor" kit isn't really necessary , I did go with stainless brake lines and I can do stoppies all day long with minimal effort so I don't see what real benefit a larger rotor would give, but perhaps if i did significant track time i'd feel differently .


It was a good list and i basically have 90% of that stuff done and a lot more besides but my build was "all around plus stunt capability" so that of course altered my build plan versus persons looking at more of a track style build or even offroad use.

My list would be the following (I have not done all of them yet):

1. VM22 Carb (or aftermarket carb). This will allow you to change jets and clean/tune the carb. If you plan on doing the ZS190cc swap... ignore this.

2. Replacement levers. The stock ones are fine, but even cheap $22 ebay ones feel better. Not to mention adjustable.

3. Front sprocket. It's a quick 5-10 minute change. A front sprocket is under $10. If you want more top speed... go higher. If you want more acceleration/easier wheelies... go smaller. The Icebear came with a 15T from factory. I swapped to a 17T. Uses the same sprocket as a Grom.

4. Exhaust. The factory exhaust on the clones are SUPER restrictive. Get an exhaust from a Honda Dax and get a better exhaust tone and more power.

4b. Remove emissions... Not that I'm advocating the removal of emissions and stuff... but some Grom clones (Boom Vader) have a PCV/EGR/Charcoal canister thing. Some people on here have removed it.

4. Rear sprocket. A bit more of a pain to swap than the front due to having to remove the rear axle/bolt and drop the wheel off. I plan on doing this when I have to change the tire on the rear. If you watch the videos, the rear sprocket is a HUGE piece. I plan on getting the Superlite Grom 35T rear sprocket. This will reduce some rotation mass.

5. Fork Oil. Get new fork oil into the front forks. This will help with the super soft squishy feeling in the front.

6. Rear shock. Plenty of aftermarket rear shocks available. Pretty self explanatory.

7. Swingarm. The factory ones (like the Grom swingarm) use rubber bushing which allows for not only up and down movement but also some side to side movement (from compressing the rubber). There are aftermarket ones that use needle bearings or other bearings. This solves that issue. Plus, most aftermarket swingarms are aluminum which looks nice.

8. Steering damper. Not sure if the Grom ones will fit. Haven't looked into it yet... but this would be a good mod to do if it will fit.

9. Speedspacers. These are popular on the Groms... which is great for us. Reduces drag. See video for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rvpaJkeKnM
Make things easier to turn/spin... go faster. Less sapping of our limited power to get things going and to keep things moving.

10. ZS190cc. No replacement for displacement. It's a 190cc versus the factory 125cc. You get 5 speed transmission instead of 4 speed. You have the ability to swap on a 4V head and even bore out to 212cc. This engine is so popular, some people with Groms are swapping this in instead of doing a bore kit (they need adapter plates and a clone wiring harness though). On our Grom clones... it bolts right in with no need for adapter plates. Wiring is essentially plug and play. There is one wire that has to be switch on the engine side. Some dealers even sell this with a carb and oil cooler.

The charcoal canister is crap and causes the bike to stall. It NEEDS to be removed until you can replace it with a part that functions as intended ...or not.

Debating if i can plug the cylinder head port thingy on the bottom of the engine and the air box vent as well.

get rid of all that egr crap asap, it just makes the bike run like shit. that charcoal canister, the stock airbox (get a cone or pod style filter for the carb intake instead), and all the hoses coming from the bottom of the engine can be removed and a block off plate can be installed. heres a link to the block off plate i used, it bolts right up ebay link

What about chain upgrades? Anybody have the specs on chain link count and chain upgrade experience?

1. VM22 carb (tuned) - I'm still using stock intake (love the enricher circuit on it)
2. Pod air filter - removing the bulky airbox
3. Remove gas tank vent/charcoal canister (plug port on intake)
4. OEM Grom rear shock - much less bouncy now
5. Upgraded engine mount bolts + 3rd under-engine-mount (ala Motocheez)
6. Knobbie tires (if you ride gravel or trails)
7. Static balance wheels (much smoother now)

Love cruising my Hellcat!
Cheers!

Stock chain is 106 links

speed spacers
 

Can Speed Spacers be used on a grom clone? I ask because isn't the speed sensor on the left side of the front wheel. Can a Speed Spacer be installed on that side of the wheel as well or does the sensor need to be altered?