pair exshaust?
Can anyone tell me if it is worth the trouble to remove the pair exshaust
And if it has any benefits Also best advice on blocking off the hole on the valve cover |
I leave the pair systems on until there is a problem. In my experience they don't cause anywhere near half the problems people say they do. The only benefit I've found is that it's not there and you don't have to worry about it if there is a problem. Which rarely occur. I think half the time people are misdiagnosing cheap thick diaphragms and carb issues with vacuum leaks associated with pair system. In theory the pair system should make the engine more efficient and preform better.
For blocking hole I've used sheet / scrap metal and rtv before it worked well. I've also mig welded one I don't recommend doing that. I had a buddy tig in a plug and that worked well. But you are probably better off ordering non-emissions valve cover as they are more consistent as long as you get the bolts line up you're golden. If you are watching the Brent's 49ccscoot PDI videos they are a tad to a lot overkill. By all means lock tight the important bolts and any nut and nut / bolt you install. I would be mainly worried about the front axle nut and the front caliper bolts. The back axle and drum are normally fine. Bolts holding on some of the plastics like come out but messing with some of them will just make it worse. Unless you really want to I see no reason to pull all the plastics off the bike. You can get to pretty much everything by pulling the bucket. Almost all wiring related issues in my experience are going to be in the front. I just replace fuel line, filter, and petcock. Put a real NGK plug in. If I'm suspect of the carb replace it. Unseal the original and inspect it. You can get away with keeping stock vacuum lines in most cases if you are suspect replace them. If valve stems are leaking then replace them. I normally change the original valve stems with in or just after the first 500 miles. |
This is about what I figured :thanks:
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It should cause no problems. The reason it's usually disabled, other than stupid people that think any emissions device steals performance, is to eliminate popping during deceleration with aftermarket exhausts.
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Popping only occurs with lack of back pressure and fuel in the exhaust. It can also be a sign you are running rich. Two things on new unmodified scooter you don't have to worry about. I suppose it's possible to have an exhaust leak out of the crate but that a completely different animal. EGR is a very good thing for an engine I don't know why you would take it off unless it was causing a problem or didn't work with a modification.
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It sounds like something that will come off and the air box and the vacuum gas valve as well
:shrug:just a lot of crap to fail a 50cc scooter should be simple I mean how much admissions can it have it gets 90mpg |
It's the all part of the grand plan of the wonderful agency that ("accidentally") dumps toxic waste in rivers.
The parts have been modified and made cheaper over the last 30 years. Different manufactures include different quality parts. For instance with a Geely all you have to do is check the valves (which are normally fine) assemble and start. The oil is even okay to run for 20-100kms. Most Znen's are also like this now. Tao Tao / Jonway, most TMEC's and a number of other manufacturers you end up almost immediately replacing the carb fuel lines ,filter, petcock and spark plug. Along with valve stems and airbox. |
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And don't fool yourself and stock consumables are crap just replace them and you will be fine Even my tt250 is going to get a overhaul in this manner at 1200kmjust a good idea and helps owner learn there bike |
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