Concours Cafe Project
 

now that my C10/sidecar is done, I'm moving on to another project. I have picked up a 1994 Concours 1000 for a wopping $350 and am planning to make a cafe out of it. I've already stripped it down to bare bones and starting to work on repair/replacement to get it running again. I swapped out the front end with my ZRX1100 setup and the rear wheel is my meanstreak milled to work with the rear brake rotor. I've got the carbs off, oil drained and valves adjusted. I'm going to try running pods, however, have been warned that pods on CV carbs don't do well. worst case I'll go back to the OEM air box.

I have the stock ZRX bars on it but may go with a lower set before it's all said and done. the tank is stock, but might end up with something smaller in the end too. I chopped the rear of the seat pan down just for a prototype. trying to find someone that can build a custom seatpan or may have to fab something myself and re-cover it.

still a LONG way to go, but it's the journey, not the destination that counts. :)

[QUOTE=Sport Rider;296950 I'm going to try running pods, however, have been warned that pods on CV carbs don't do well. [/QUOTE]

They don't tend to do well with pod filters because it changes the pressure ratio between the inlet and "outlet" side of the carburetors, which affects throttle as well as fueling.

The short answer is, it can be done. The long answer is, you may spend a VERY long time getting it to run properly - aka have a good stable idle and proper fueling across all RPM ranges at all throttle positions.

It also really comes down to the carb manufacturer and design. Keihin CV carbs tend to have a lovely combination of both air jets and fuel jets. In the case of my GL1000, each carb had no less than 5 jets to consider - 2 air and 3 fuel. Even changing out to a high flow air filter threw them completely out of whack, and it was a bear to get them working properly again.

This is a really neat project no matter what direction you go. I will definitely be following.

I'm told velocity stacks help with tuning CV carbs on pods. I have had many problems with my GS running a K&N lunch box filter. It hesitates and stumbles below 3500 rpm. Above 3500, hold on.

Wow, what a great bike to cafe' out!...I don't think I've seen this done before. I love it and it'll be a ripper when done ;)
I'm excited to watch the project unfold :tup:

Thanks for posting! Love to see a build come together! SUB'd!

let's see:
- coolant flushed
- sourcing ignition switch. replacement key is 75 plus tax locally. I think I can get one for 50 off ebay
- swapped alternator from another motor only because it was nicer cosmetically.
- installed case clutch cover for cosmetic purposes
- removed petcock and fuel float. internals of tank not good.
- ordered new petcock
- ordered keyless gas cap
- sourcing carbs

I'll get these things wrapped up and then work on starting the bike to be sure it's mechanically sound. after that, tank, seat, headlight, turn signals, hoop for rear, brake light, footpeg, mufflers.

Last but not least, title and tag. :)

How bad is the inside of the tank? Typical "sat a long time" heavy surface rust? Whatever you do, avoid using fuel tank sealer if you can. Once you use whatever de-rusting method you prefer (Vinegar, muriatic acid, etc) neutralize, rinse, and then fill it up with some MMO and slosh it around really well to help stop flash rusting. Once you drain the MMO back out, put the petcock and fuel float back in and fill it up with treated fuel - I personally love Marine Stabil, but regular Stabil works just as well. Tank sealers end up being more trouble than they are worth, and I have yet to see one that has held up over time.

the potential problem with the tank is some rust bubbling I see around the bottom of the tank. I'm concerned that there are at least pin leaks...if not worse...if/when I'd clean the tank out. from what I have seen so far, it's in the category of "sat a long time heavy surface rust" category. I've used POR-15 in the past with good results, but I'm not keen about the possible pinhole leaks.

From my own experience, if it is pinholed by rust, the metal that remains after removing the rust is usually very weak and very thin. A sealant might buy it a little time, but the best thing you could do is find a new tank.

give me some feedback on these prototype photos....

Purely from an aesthetic point of view, the cowl on the back of the seat in the first picture needs to end just before the rear wheel centerline. Might make the seat a bit cramped though. Other than that, it follows the line and rake of the bike very well.

Some kid drew on your pics.:hehe:

I agree. I'm hoping I can bring it in a few inches and get the right look without limiting the seating too much.

I did a quick and dirty edit to what I think would be the best compromise. Moving the rear seat cowl forward what looks to be 3 inches or so to where it begins just before the bolt on the very rear of the subframe. I think that would retain enough seating area to be comfortable while also tightening up the look/visual balance. Realistically you could probably come forward even more than this, but I think this is a practical seat size for most full sized adult males.

I'm going to try to lower the angle of the seat a bit and shorten it too.

for the seat I have my eye on, it's a 16 1/2 inch seat area. I can see 13 or so being fine. that'll save me the length to end at a better looking spot.