Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Oil Use in Hawk/TBR7 motors
 

The local Wally World had gallon jugs of Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck (TDT) oil for 13.00 on clearance and thats a decent price.....

**Since Rotella T6 is diesel truck oil (or at least marketed that way) could we simply use the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck (TDT) Oil in our honda clone engines also?? :hmm:

**Both do not have the EC (energy conserving) seal on them asfaik.... see the pic below.

I have read on BOBISTHEOILGUY that the major reason not to use automotive oil in wet clutch motorcycles is that the friction modifiers in "energy conserving" oils interferes with clutch function."

as stated above the MOBIL 1 TDT oil does not have the energy conserving seal (nor does Rotella T6) and is the same weight I have been using for both my Vstrom and TBR7. Which leads me to believe it is in fact safe...

but I am asking the "collective" because maybe I am missing something.....

Thanks all , Cheers!

If it is acceptable as I think it is and your looking for some just use brick seek.....
https://brickseek.com/p/mobil-1-98je...0-turbo/243676
Put in your zip of course... and please understand that brickseek is not 100% accurate... I would give it 85% accurate as a guess.

Rotella T6 is JASO MA-2, that one is not.

there you go... now i know. i imagine its possible it does meet the JASO MA rating but that it hasn't been tested or whatever reason, thougn i am not risking it myself.

Assume 5w is too light for the motorcycle anyway ? especially during the summer.

Usually run 10w's ... if we climb into 90 degree's I have run 20w

That is very possible. Those ratings are not free, T4 and T6 are both ma/ma2 but T5 is not, most likely because shell didn't want to pay for another cert. You could ask mobile 1, they may tell you. People have asked shell before about certain oils and they stated they did meet the requirements but they did not pay to get the cert. Still a gamble though, could be fine but might not be.

i personally wouldnt, given the 5w40... i typically run 15w40 in my bike

That's quite a suicide reply from a mfg. Because let's say they say "Yes it is rather JASO MA-2 but we didn't pay for the certification". If something happens to the clutch, it's SUE time!!..


But that's the truth anyway a lot of oils exceed or meet most of the current Standards. Certification is not cheap so a lot of mfg just skip don't certificate them

What's the point in getting a Jaso ma-2 certification for an oil that is intended to be use on Diesel trucks?

They can you tell it meets it, but it doesn't change the fact it does not carry the cert so using it is at your own risk.

Im guessing they sell a ton of it to power sports users so the testing and cert make them money.

There are some bike manufacturers that even recommend the use of T6 in their bikes.

Ive run Rotella T6 in a bunch of motorcycle engines, from Hondoid to my 2000 Concours that had almost 70k miles on the original engine with no clutch issues to speak of.

Common knowledge is that thinner oils actually run cooler, due to their increased flow across parts. The heavier weights are more needed for engines that have poor tolerances. For instance, My Ural used 20w50 no matter what temp it was outside because that engine is a disgusting Russian sloppy mess even when brand new. Not hearing piston slap and valve rattle is cause for concern.

The tolerances in these Chinese engines aren't bad. They aren't Yamaha precision instrument low, but they aren't bad. Rotella T6 is an oil formulated for high heat, high abuse applications like diesel engines that run PTOs at high idle while sitting and have gear driven valvetrains. You'll find it to serve your purposes quite well.

Wait that is not how it works.. You don't use heavier oils because the engine has poor tolerances... Some people use heavier oil on worn out engines because they think they can get some compression back, but they are actually making things worse. A good example of this is when people use castrol 25w60 instead of just fixing the engine....

Oil weight should be determined by weather. It would be quite insane to run 20w50 on 0c (32f), by the end of the season the wear due to cold starts would quite big.

Yeah, using Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil for your Honda clone engines sounds like it could work, especially since it doesn't have that energy-conserving seal. I had a similar situation with my old dirt bike. I was looking for a cheaper oil alternative and ended up trying a diesel truck oil because it met the bike's specs. It worked out fine for me. No issues with the clutch or anything.

Just be sure to check if it fits your engine's needs. Sometimes what works for one might not work for another. And hey, if you ever need to move your bikes or anything big, have a look at some used trailers for sale. I got one a while back, and it's been super handy for hauling my bike and gear on road trips.

Never really got the diesel oil thing. I mean you can buy actual motorcycle oil these days on the shelf of every Wal Mart I've been in. Plus since we often only need 1.5 quarts or something I don't get the expense thing either really.
Now years ago yeah, T4 was a much better option than paying premium motorcycle shop prices. To be sure.
$13 a gallon for T6 is a heckuva deal, like 50% off. Even cheap non-synthetic Delo only gets down to like $16 a gallon.

One of my bike's factory spec is straight 60 weight. 70 for hot weather and 50 for winter. Being kickstart only, that kind of sucks. 30 years of experimentation with using 20w50 in it I think has about proven that work OK. Year round.

My china bike gets Wal Mart motorcycle oil, so do the Hondas. I have diesel truck, it gets whatever diesel-specific oil is on sale. I buy oil ahead of need so it may be I might "borrow" a little Rotella or whatever to top off a bike. Not a big deal.

One of my bike's factory spec is straight 60 weight. 70 for hot weather and 50 for winter.

I suspect you and I have brother bikes then.