new chain for TT250
 

I'm hoping to find a better quality chain than what CSC recommended here, like an O-ring version of this. Anyone have any suggestions?


This one was mentioned when I said I want to go down to a 16T front / 45T rear sprocket, and he said I'd need to remove 1.5 to 2 links from that one.



https://cscmotorcycles.com/chain-428...g-b-for-tt250/

Just a suggestion, but if you're changing the chain and both sprockets, you may want to consider going to a 520 chain with a sprocket combination that gives you a similar final ratio to the sprocket combination you listed (which is a 2.813 ratio). A 520 chain and sprockets are considerably more robust and will last longer. Combinations of 520 sprockets that would be close to the same final gearing would be 12/34 (2.833 ratio) or 13/37 (2.846 ratio). Just buy a 115 link, or longer, 520 chain and cut it to fit as needed.

And this is why I come here :yay:. I figured there would a different configuration, I just knew CSC sold the 45 and 16 as their lowest so went "yup that's what I'll do". I'll do some research and see what I can find. (something like this? https://www.steahlyoffroad.com/catal...t/view/id/2397) (Or gold, is that better? https://cjdesignsllc.com/product/srt...hain-120-link/)


What kind of sprockets should I be searching for, other than that amount of teeth?

Take a look at the third post in the sticky https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331. That should give you some resources as to what to look for. Brands of chain can be a matter of personal preference, but for what it's worth, if you're set on going with an o-ring type sealed chain, I'd look for an "x-ring" chain. The shape of the seals between the plates on an x-ring chain generally do a better job of keeping contaminants out of the pins and their bushings. You may want to do some searching on here to see if anyone has run into issues with 520 o-ring (or x-ring) chain causing any fitment concerns as it is a little wider than standard 520 chain. I haven't crossed that bridge yet myself so I don't know if it's an issue or not.

That Gearing Commander website is pretty neat. I'm actually wondering if I'm going in the wrong direction, as it looks like my top speed RPM wouldn't change much, which is what I'm going for (I've stopped caring much about the low end torque). Now maybe I'm thinking just keep the front sprocket where it is at 17T and just change the rear down to 45T. The graph shows at 50mph:


STOCK = 17T / 50T = 6346 RPM
CURRENT= 17T / 47T = 5965 RPM
CUSTOM = 17T / 45T = 5711 RPM


Whereas if I try my first suggestion or the other:
16T / 45T = 6068 RPM
12T / 34T = 6113 RPM
So the above two aren't really hitting where I'm aiming for.





IF I WENT WITH 17T / 45T combo, could I still use a 520 chain? I've found some info out there but it's a little over my head at the moment so just looking for a direction to look.

Just curious, do you use the bike more for road? If that’s the case, I would go the bare chain meaning no o-rings. Another thought having a bigger front sprocket can sure help if the chain gets on the looser side between adjustments. Just my thoughts…

I do, but I still try and spend time on dusty limestone trails as often as possible so it does get very powdery underneath. The chain they put on when I bought it was the upgraded O-ring chain, but I think the riding around my neighborhood during winter when I first got it took it's toll with the salt, as I now have a handful of very tight kinks. But never really had too much issue with it stretching, after maybe 2000mi it seemed to stay put.

UPDATE: CSC just told me "those sprockets only use a 428 chain, the 520 does not fit". Given that I go with their 17 and 45, which is what I'll probably do, so I think I have that part figured out.


Lastly, the chain. Looking at 428 X-ring chains, I come up with these two (at just this seller). Am I on the right track here?

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...x-ring-chain-p
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...series-chain-p


Am I correct in thinking as long as I have MORE links than needed, I'll be fine and can just remove the ones I don't need? I did acquire a chain breaker tool.

I have noticed that the 428 chains are reasonable in price and some even come with the chain breaker off of Amazon. With that thought and if you ride or commute most on the street then the x and o ring type chains could reduce the mpg your looking for because of friction. Just my thought…

Done. Ordered the CSC sprockets and the DID x-ring from Rocky Mountain (someone actually listed a 2021 TT250 in the reviews and said it works, so good enough for me!). Hooray for safety upgrades.

Just remember that the x ring may help the chain life, but there is no x or o ring between the chain and sprocket…

How do I figure out how many links to leave in the new chain with the new sprocket tooth count? I got the D.I.D. 428 VX X-Ring chain, a 17T front, and a 45T for the rear.


It looks like Gearing Commando has something about it, but I didn't know how to interpret the "sprocket distance" field box.



Should I just eyeball it, put it on, keep removing one link at a time until I'm at the right spot to pull up the slack with the adjuster plates?

Install the new sprockets on the bike, put the axle about where you want it, wrap the chain around the new sprockets, then mark where you need to break the chain. If in doubt, err on the chain being too long. You can always shorten it, whereas lengthening it involves having two master links which is less than ideal.

Also, it's good practice to grind flat the peened head of the pin that you're going to use the chain breaker on. Otherwise, the peened end can slightly elongate the pin bushing when the chain breaker pushes it through.

I know you got yours, but I got the NICHE Gold 428 X-Ring Chain (130 links) last year. So much better than the stock, which was still stretching after 1k miles. I paid a bit over $40, but now it’s $10 cheaper. Anyway, nice chain for the money.

Tomorrow is the day, I'm a little nervous. I noticed my chain breaker doesn't have a press connection to fit the master link on, but saw some videos of how to safely smoosh it into place so hopefully that will go smoothly. Any other tips that come to mind?