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Templar 250 resource guide
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This is a collaborative effort that will be updated as new information becomes available. Please contribute what you can and leave discussion in other threads. We want to keep this thread limited to Templar 250 spec's, facts, useful info and links. Thanks to everyone in advance for your contributions!
Below are the guidelines for contribution: -No live links to external vendor websites like Amazon (they die, sometimes quickly) Instead, include the full description that can be googled, and you can mention the vendor(s) that have it to make it easy to find. -No personal posts about your bike. Start your own thread to post that, or questions for forum members to help you out -Links to ChinaRiders threads or individual posts are definitely useful, because there is lots of useful information hidden all over this website. -Do not post untested parts or methods, only things that are proven to work. A link to your successful install or procedure on your own thread is perfect. -Photos can be very useful if you have them. Thanks! Brakes: Front & rear pads: FA86 Carb: Youall PE28, 120 main jet, 40 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on idle mixture screw *Suggested jetting start point for 0-2000' ASL: 125 main, 42 pilot, +1mm needle, 1.5 turns out on idle air mixture screw (YMMV) How to: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=25 https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...79&postcount=5 Exhaust: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=28 Valves: Clearance .05mm +/- 0.02mm (.001-.003") *Cold How to: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=23 https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=496 Spark plug: Torch D8TC (oem), NGK D8EA (copper), NGK DPR8EIX-9 (iridium) GAP: 0.6-0.8mm (.024-.031") Ignition: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...35&postcount=9 Headlight bulb: Base Templar: H6 BA20D, X/M: H4/9003/HB2 Replacement headlamp Front sprocket: 13 tooth http://www.chinariders.net/attachmen...5&d=1656684324 Rear sprocket: X: 49 teeth Base/M: 47 teeth Attachment 28667 X/M* Attachment 29218 2022 Base/M* * Templar M is known to ship with hubs drilled for either JTR210 or JTR897. Measure before ordering. * Titan 2023+ now uses JTR210 * Oilcan has a 2023 Templar that uses JTR210 so 2023 Templar owners should measure before ordering. Chain: Templar: 520x112L X/M: 520x112L Body panels: X/M = 2007-2009 Suzuki RMZ 250 (fitment verified), Base = 2013-2016 KTM 125-450 (unverified, try at your own risk) Front forks: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32140 Rear shocks: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...1&postcount=22 How to lower your Templar Texas Pete's Torque Spec's Texas Pete's wheel and tire specs and fitment Special thanks to Thumper for pioneering the way for future Templar owners, JerryHawk250 for moderating this great forum and all the members who contributed to this resource. |
Rear sprockets-in this case 40 tooth JT Sprockets JTR210.40
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G...b_b_asin_title Plastics and graphics compatible with 2007-2009 RMZ 250 https://www.revzilla.com/motocross/a...?sku_id=737962 Carb Jets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08DY...b_b_asin_title |
42T Rear Sprocket: JT Sprockets JTR210.42
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bark Busters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1 |
If this thread is going to be useful for QUICK, EASY to FIND information, please stick to tested solutions/procedures/equipment, or links to YOUR thread or a description of a tested and useful modification or maintenance procedure, with photo(s) if you have them. This advice is spread over hundreds of links-the idea here is to limit posts to useful information and links. Avoid links that might die (amazon, aliexpress), and PLEASE, no questions (post them in the main Forum).
Links to your posts in other threads where you worked out the details are good. A photos of the modification, maintenance procedure, or accessory is welcomed, along with a description of any issues related to the work... Here are a few: OEM smoothbore YouAll carb opening and rejetting, with pics. This is from the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in the video and pics section. It shows how to take out the screws if they are "difficult": https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...09&postcount=7 This one has the jets, link and description, and recommended jets: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...3&postcount=25 Weight (282lbs): https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...6&postcount=23 HERE is a link to a post on Valve adjustment, with a pic. For the 172FMM (this engine), adjust your valves on a cold engine. In this post (link below) I recommended 0.002 on the intake, and 0.0025" on the exhaust. Some have recommended 0.001" on the intake, and 0.002" on the exhaust. There is a minor chance that when the engine heats up to running temp, the valves may not fully close, which can result in burn through in the long term (valve seat/valve damage). This problem is worse on push rod driven valves, where the length of the rod increases expansion changes upon heating, but this is an OHC head. So 0.001" might be fine on the intake. And the exhaust valve may close completely if set at 0.002" cold. The slightly wider gaps insure complete valve closure: VALVE ADJUSTMENT procedure, with photos Nutcracker found and posted this front fork video. NICE (THANKS!). https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=545 Front Fork REBUILD: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=546 And one from Blueridge on fork oil change: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=549 |
Needle Shim instructions
TK found this post for me. I had posted it in my thread in video and pics but there are SO many!
2022 Templar X 250 build quality and assembly This is written for doing the job while the carb it still on the bike (yes, you can!!): The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifted (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb! It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. If you do remove the carb, while you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer). It is much easier to remove/replace the carb if you remove the exhaust and rear shock. But here is the method for doing this while carb is still on the bike... Here's how to shim the needle: You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe. Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean. Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm thick or so-thickness determines shim height) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle. Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted! Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!). Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done. |
Easy big knob (idle adjustment)
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The OEM idle adjustment screw (slide height) is knurled, But it is still a little difficult to reach, pinch and twist. Good news is that there are inexpensive replacements with big "knobs"! I found one on AliExpress for $2.82 plus a few bucks shipping. It is a perfect fit. To find it, Google:
ZS Racing Motorcycle Carburetor Idle Speed Adjustment Screw For Universal PWK Carburetor WARNING: This knob will hit the frame on the base Templar. So this upgrade is good for Templar X and Templar M models. It takes about 3 weeks by US mail, but worth it. Just order it and forget about it. It will show up eventually! There are others out there. Just keep with the dimensions. I measured the OEM slide screw first. Diameter/length of the nub was good, and it fit in my thread gauge (M5-0.80) so I tried it: Attachment 28418 The add on AliExpress shows dimensions, and they match: Attachment 28419 Here it is installed Attachment 28420 Only one thing to keep in mind... The spring that comes with it it strong and kind of too long, so I reused the OEM spring from the original. ALSO, the thing comes with a nice washer, which I used on the carb side of the spring. |
Regarding the shimming of the needle jet, you can buy special shim washers sold specifically for this purpose that are 0.5mm thick or get 0.5mm thick M3 washers from any hardware store. SAE #4 washers can also be used but are slightly larger diameter and thicker (0.8mm). It's best to use stainless steel or brass.
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Replacement carb for anyone that botches up the oem one or doesn't want to fuss or muss with it: For PE28 28mm,KIMISS Carburetor Carb Fits for Honda CR80 CR80RB 1996-2002 CR85 CR85R 2003
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/a...pacebran131-20 |
CDI box is AC, not DC
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If you want to buy a fixed advance high performance or adjustable CDI box, you have to choose AC or DC. Which is it on the 5 speed Templar X ?
The power in wire on a DC CDI box gets 12V as soon as you turn on the ignition, whereas an AC type isn't powered until the engine is turning over so it gets AC power directly from the stator. Here is a picture of the CDI box on the Templar. The front wire in the photo (black/red) is the power wire. It does NOT get powered when you turn on the ignition. The other clue is that it is the narrower, smaller type of CDI box, which are typically AC type. Some AC CDIs are larger, but AC CDIs can be the smaller format, and this is. NOTE: My 6speed Templar X has a DC CDI unit. This adjustable AC unit won't work on the 6 speed. Attachment 28491 TESTED-WORKS. The Naraku adjustable advance CDI worked in my Templar X https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm42eL-fmfo Attachment 28492 NOTE: ADVANCE KEY VERSUS ELECTRONIC CDI ADVANCE?? Electronic advance is a standard used in high performance engines. It is plug and play, no wrenching, but there are other advantages, including no advance at idle (prevents kickback...easier starting). Here is more information on this: https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...light=ignition |
Rear Wiring - turn signals/brake
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HERE IS A WIRING DIAGRAM from my 2022 TemplarX (5-speed) owners manual:
Attachment 31343 NOTE: The wiring diagram is incomplete, doesn't show lights/horn/ignition lockout circuits! It is a good idea to wrap the rear wires in a protector. I posted this last year: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...43&postcount=1 See the 6th and 7th pics. But the wiring needs to be pinned up on the fender. I did this on the 6 speed, but finally did it on the 5 speed. Simple task-just drill a couple of holes for each zip strip position. Two of them seems enough for mine: Attachment 28518 Attachment 28519 Attachment 28520 |
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Texas Pete's Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Spreadsheet
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I have fished my now grease stained and handwritten marked up Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Spreadsheet that I had made and updated it and put the document up on Google Drive for anyone to download.
Update now includes separate columns for Nuts, Bolts and Other (Usually Socket Cap screw heads, etc.). I have started to populate the bolt and nut sizes as I encounter them (and remember to record them!) on the sheet. If folks want to continue to fill out the blanks and then share a copy of their data back I'll re-compiled their updated information into the document for all to be able to download the latest updates with. Added in this update:
Screenshot: https://www.chinariders.net/data:ima...BJRU5ErkJggg== Attachment 28685 Get your copy of the Torque Specifications here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dAw...ew?usp=sharing Let me know if the link does or doesn't work for you in a separate PM to keep this thread clean. |
Nice!!!! Since thereis no service manual (at least that i can find) this is very valuable info.
ThanksTexas Pete! |
Oh and also a shout out to Thumper. Already using some of his carb info... Thanks again!!
The carb comes out fairly easy without removing exhaust or shock. 1. lossen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet of the carb. 2.Carb can then be slide out of intake mount and airfilter. 3.Remove the the 2 intake screws 8 mm & remove intake 4.unscrew the needle 5. uncrew the choke cable 6. Remove fuel line 7.Carb can now be removed from right side |
Fork preload spacers for the KKE forks are available from Joe Henner Motorsports. Joe can be contacted on Facebook or by email at race858@yahoo.com
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I actually had spare jets on hand to fit the main and i think this was the pilot but don't quote me on that as i may be mixing it up with the pilot jet from my former Titan DLX: https://www.amazon.com/Motofoal-pilo...ps%2C77&sr=8-2
The needle is adjustable and the carb fits exactly as the stock one does. |
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As mentioned in the main Templar thread, there is no gasket between the intake boot and cylinder head. I was able to find a gasket at my local Autozone auto parts store that is a good fit. It's a thermostat housing gasket, part #35368.
Attachment 28892 Attachment 28893 Attachment 28894 |
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Unfortunately I don't have any information on replacement suspension components or exact specs for the oem parts. Your best bet is to start a new thread about it and any useful information posted will be added here as it becomes available. Another option is to contact Joe Henner Motorsports on Facebook. He offers suspension tuning for Chinese bikes. I got some fork preload spacers from him recently that helped immensely with my too-soft Templar forks (I weigh 250lbs). Good luck. |
The OEM spring on the KKE rear shock on the Templar is 350 lbs per inch. It is the stiffest spring available from KKE for that shock. I contacted KKE Racing
(2260 S. Haven Ave Unit B, Ontario California 91761, United States), but their primary motorcycle product for North America is wheels, not shocks. But they can get you a replacement shock. KKE model number is MA40B03 He quoted me $169 plus $80 shipping Ya I know, shipping is ridiculous, but these are OEM supplied by KKE, manufactured in China for motorcycle builders like Zuumav, Kamax, etc. To figure out what spring could replace it (not KKE racing), measure the mounted length from end to end first, Then you can remove the shock and measure the internal diameter on the mounting ends. You can measure the length uncompressed when you have it out if you want to. Overall spring length is kind of important. It might be hard to find much stiffer spring though. FYI- I compressed the shock by more than one inch and it was STIFF!!! Chances are, all you really need to do is compress the preload. Look at posts 12 through 14 in this thread for a how to on preload adjustment: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860 Alternatively, The bolt diameter is 10mm (upper and lower rear shock mounts) and bushing length (22mm for the upper, and I think the lower one is identical - you can measure it). Find a shock with the same mounting bolt size, ~ same length or shorter if you want to lower it (1" shorter creates ~3" to 3-1/2" lowering). The only possible issue is the side mounted ballonet has to be at a slight angle to fit. Just get one without a ballonet to avoid that problem!. Here are some specs I sent to KKE racing: Some specifications: -460mm distance from top to bottom mounting positions (center to center of mounting holes) -10mm bolts top and bottom (mounting holes) -22mm wide upper mount bushing -350lbs/inch spring -rebound adjustment is at the base of the cylinder on the lower mount -compression adjustment is on the top of the ballonet |
Valve Adjustment
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Adjusting the valves on these SOHC 249cc 4 stroke engines is really easy. But depending on the make model you have, you may have to take stuff off to get to the head, more work than the adjustment in most cases! :crazy: So plan any other things you might want to do with the tank off.
The procedure described here can be applied to practically any OHC four stroke (push rod engines just need wider gaps), but this is written for the 172FMM-3A which is the OEM 5 speed engine on the Spring 2022 Templar X and currently on the Templar M and standard Templar. Same procedure applies to the 6 speed. Templar X started to ship with a 6 speed counterbalanced version of this engine later last Summer, the ZS172FMM-5 (yeah I know, why -5 if it is a 6 speed!) but the valve adjustment is the same for ALL of the 172FMM engines, including the ones on other brands like Lifan. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Heads UP! Start this task with almost empty fuel tank.:tup: Not necessarily in exactly this order, here is what to do on the Templar: -Take the seat off. Find the two 8mm bolts just behind the forward rack mount on the Templars. -Remove the gas tank. Here comes the fun part. You need to drain the tank or have golf tees ready to plug the hoses as you remove them. This isn't all that complicated, so I am not going to give step by step instructions. The Golf Tees work!! So now you can remove the tank... Two 6mm allen bolts (one on each end of the tank) AND two more 8mm bolts at the front lower mounts for the air wings that mount to the black metal framed louvres. The gas tank rests forward on those wings nicely, off in the corner somewhere. Now remove the right side metal wind louvre (two more 8mm bolts). OK, that is the worst of it. Now would be the time to replace the coil or other work under there if you need to. -Take the spark plug out. This is optional, but it makes it much easier to get the crankshaft positioned TDC, and you can read the plug to see if you are running lean or rich. -remove the access port on the left case, and put a 14mm socket on the nut that holds the flywheel/harmonic balancer/rotor on the crankshaft. Just in case you did not know, the stator is mounted inside this rotor. -remove the view port on the top of the left case to see the timing marks for aligning TDC Here is a photo showing these two ports BIG flathead screwdriver on the 5speed, 10mm allen wrench on the 6speed: Attachment 29042 Attachment 29043 -Counterclockwise rotation on the crank. I like to use a 3/8" breaker bar ($12 at Harbor Fright) to rotate the crank (14mm socket). Attachment 29046 This gives you extreme control on the position of the crank. The valve springs are strong, and the crank slips past TDC SOoo easily. Slow counterclockwise movement to keep the cam chain tensioned/valves closed at TDC. -As you rotate the crank, watch for the T| mark on the rotor. Align the | just right of the T Attachment 29045 OK, It is a 4 stroke engine (2 revolutions), so either BOTH valves are closed (compression stroke), or just the intake valve is closed (exhaust stroke). You can rotate the crankshaft and watch the rocker arms as the crank approaches TDC. Leave it at TDC with BOTH valves closed so you can adjust both of them. A 10mm nut locks the adjustment stem-loosen it. Adjust it with a little screwdriver to 0.002" on both (0.0015" is OK on the intake side). Attachment 29047 The tappet stem WILL tighten when you secure it with the 10mm locking nut if you don't hold it at position. Check it after you tension it. Gorilla tightening is NOT advised. Just snug it down and then another 1/8th turn to lock. Seriously, Don't. You don't want to replace these! Close it all up and you are done. |
Nice write-up on valve adjustments, although you can get away with not having to drain the tank by just lifting it to one side and resting on something while you do the adjustments. Also, after removing the spark plug i found it to be very informative to use a long wooden dowel or something you can inset in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the top
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Higher cranking amps-replacement Battery
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Here is a good option for a replacement battery for the Templars. The dimensions are shown:
Attachment 29072 I got one last year for the 6 speed. It has performed well. I just got another for the 5 speed, and it cost even less ($26.99). Found it in Amazonia. It is slightly bigger but fits perfectly in the battery cradle. Google this description to find it. Weize YTX5L-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free |
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Slip on "any" 51mm/2" inlet muffler
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Find yourself a Stainless Steel middle/Mid-Pipe Slip-On Connector Replacement for a Piaggio:
BEVERLY 125/300 2009-2016 MP3 125 2008-2014 MP3 250/250LT 2008-2013 MP3 300/300LT 2008-2016 X10 125 2012-2016 Found this 51mm/2" muffler adapter to work great. The O.D. of the stock exhaust pipe is ~32mm. It was available from a few sources with a search. You may need to fine tune the length depending on the dimensions of the muffler to get muffler mount to line up. https://chinariders.net/attachment.p...1&d=1684793466 https://chinariders.net/attachment.p...1&d=1684795895 |
Replacement headlight assembly for Templar
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The stock headlamp on the Templar is worthless. It's a reflector housing which only works well with incandescent bulbs but it is fitted with a very cheap, low output LED bulb. The only incandescent bulbs that fit the BA-20D base are low wattage and useless for a headlight. I tried installing a better LED but although much brighter, it had a terrible beam pattern (as expected). It was blinding to on-coming traffic with a weak, scattered pattern extending from roadway to sky.
LED headlights require a projector housing to work properly so I decided to test this dual projector replacement headlamp assembly from Amazon. Attachment 29443 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRQ1ZZL3...roduct_details Watch for coupons on this item. I got 40% off and today it's 20% off. The same headlamp is also available with a plastic number plate and mounting straps on Amazon for ~$60. Installation was a breeze. The light assembly is a direct fit replacement for the oem unit. The new light includes a separate pigtail connector to allow you to change the wiring pinout to match the oem 4-pin male harness plug. The oem wire color assignments are listed below: Green - ground White - low beam/running light* Brown - running light/low beam* Blue - high beam * Interchangeable. Both are +12v when headlamp switch is 'on' I wired mine: OEM - New Green - black (gnd) white - white (RL) blue - brown (HB) brown - blue (LB) The results are amazing! The beam pattern is near perfect, the cut-off is clean and well defined and the light output is very impressive. I would definitely buy it again. It is the single biggest improvement to my Templar yet. I don't plan to ride a lot at night but at least now I can and with confidence. Note: I have no idea if this fits the Templar X or M number plate but the version with a new plate should fit without issue. |
replacement Exhaust Gaskets
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I found a good exhaust crush gasket replacement. The vendor is on ebay (mopedfactory). I went by the fact that 1) the listing showed the measurements (38.5mm outer diameter, 5mm thickness), and 2) the description has the text "CF250 172MM" in it:
"Exhaust Gasket Ring for 250cc Water-Cooled CN250 CF250 172MM Helix" I paid for 2 gaskets, but I got 4 of them. Sorry, can't provide part numbers that yield anything on a google search ! Removing the original gasket was a little difficult, but was able to get it out OK. The new gasket fit perfectly, snug to stay while I installed the header pipe. I installed with the metal side against the port, the black crushable side towards the pipe. It sealed right up. Attachment 29539 |
Templar X replacement throttle cable that is the same as the original is the Nibbi CB Throttle cable 36.8"/5.0 or 36.8/5.1. And comes in different colors if you are into that.
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Unrestricted Access to Rear Shock
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New user here, I have read the entire post of the Templar X, a lot of it several times. I ordered the Templar X after reading.
Mine has a born on date of June 2023, and they have addressed a few issues noted in earlier posts. Mine has an intake gasket, it also has a washer between the right side rear axle spacer to make clearance for the brake caliper, so no dragging of the pads. Removing the carb is a pain, and I followed directions from user Old-Dude to get it out by removing the intake "manifold" and modify it. When it came time to adjust the shock, I was too impatient to hammer it around one notch at a time. I started to remove the air box and then figured out. 1.Remove the seat and right side panel (if you cut a notch with a razor knife instead of the hole, you don't have to loosen the luggage rack every time you need to remove the panel, I read that somewhere on here and did it). 2.Muffler 3. Crankcase vent from airbox to engine. (I tried both ends, and the engine side is easier to reinstall). 4. Loosen clamp on rear of carburetor to airbox. 5.Remove two allen head screws in the frame and loosen the bolt right behind the gas tank. Now the entire rear subframe will pivot up and rest on the gas tank. Battery and all wiring stays in place. You have unrestricted access to the shock preload adjustment and also a straight shot at the carburetor. I was able to change the jets without (removing the gas tank)....Duh, I meant to say disconnecting the carb cables or fuel line. Hope someone finds this useful. |
I just remove the exhaust to pull the carb out. You do not have to remove the tank to get the carb out.
In fact, you can pull the slide out without removing the exhaust (just loosen the clamps and twist the carb to shim the needle). There are exhaust gaskets (in this thread, above) if you need one for reinstallation of the exhaust. To get the rear shock out, just remove the upper mount bolt, and the lower linkage. The shock drops out the bottom in minutes. I took the rear frame off when I first got my X too. I wanted to check out the structure, reassemble with loctite where needed, but I wont do that again. That is way more work than either removing the exhaust to get the carb out, and way more work than unbolting the rear shock and dropping it out the bottom. The linkage is easy to put back together, and you can drill a new lower mounting hole on the rear shock to lower the bike while it is out. I compressed the rear shock spring to dial up some preload (turned the collar by hand with spring compressed!). |
I see that your description has the rear frame pivoting, not removed. Your photos showed it entirely removed. But you still have to remove the muffler to pivot the frame. But as I said, you can easily remove the rear shock through the bottom. Just remove the top mounting bolt and the linkage. I have a spring compression tool so I can compress it and tighten the adjustment collar by hand. It is easier on those threads (aluminum), and reinstallation of the shock is easy.
And removing the carb is easy if you remove the exhaust. Removing the exhaust is easier than pivoting the frame too. It is just less work. No need to mess with the rear frame. |
Not quite getting the rear shock adjustment. After immediately seeing the wrench I use on other bikes would in no way get in there I just grabbed a very long and skinny punch. Ground the end nice and flat and tapped it with a hammer until I got it to where I thought I might like it and test rode. Took like three minutes maybe. This is a '23 X, as we know not all Templars are 100% the same.
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Lowering your bike, shorter rear shock method
Here is the thread in the Dual Sport section about lowering the Templar X. I thought I should add a link to this thread to the resource guide so it is easier to find.
I added the lowering mount position on my Blue 2022 and a 1/2 Templar X before I sold it, and this thread has the photos from that process. I will probably do this with the 5 speed X this Winter, and dialup maybe a 1/3 inch of compression to stiffen it up. But I will just drop the bike a couple of inches, not 3 to 3-1/2 inches. To do this, I will drill the new hole closer to the original lower mounting position. Note: If you have the entire shock/spring out, free from the bike, you can use a drill press and get the new mounting hole exactly where you want it, and square across the TWO forks. This is important for lining up for re-installation, but also for smoothe lower linkagage movement. It is a 10mm bolt, so a 10mm drill bit is best. https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860 To remove the shock for this process, I will drop it out through the linkage area. As I mentioned a couple of posts back, this is an easy way to remove the rear shock. |
Because I seem to be that kind of person, I lowered my X the same way except I took nothing loose but the pivot link. Never pulled the shock and drilled it right there on the bike. I'm a mechanical shortcut kind of guy. Comes from spending some early years working flat rate I expect.
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If/when you take the seat off, have a look at that "button" that holds the front of the seat on. Take the screw out of it, put some Loc-Tite on it, and put it back. Mine loosened itself and there was nothing holding the front of the seat on. No big deal. But if you lose either that oddly short screw, or God forbid, that button you'll be in a bad way trying to find replacements I bet.
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Templar X 250 Fuse: F10AL250V
F 10A L F: Fast Blow L: Low Over Current required to start blowing 10A: 10 Amps 250V: Can handle voltages up to 250 volts and still function as designed Size Metric: 6x30mm Size SAE: 1/4" x 1 1/4" Example Domestic Supply (NAPA): Fast Acting, Glass Tube, 1/4 x 1 1/4 (6.3 mm x 32 mm) Physical Size, Nickel Plated Brass Endcap Construction, UL Listed Product Meets Standard 248 14 Made in Taiwan vs Made in China https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7822060 NAPA Fuse: BP/AGC-10-RP BP: "Bolted Pigtail" type of fuse AGC: All Glass C size Cartridge (1/4" x 1 1/4") 10: 10 Amp RP: The "RP" in a fuse designation does not have a universally standardized meaning but may refer to a "rejection type" or "rejection pin" design, which is often used to ensure that fuses of the wrong amperage rating cannot be inserted into a circuit. R at the end usually means RoHS compliant, but there is nothing in the data sheets that mention what RP means. Most AG fuses which are made for Automotive use have a Voltage Rating: 32V AC/DC |
Yet another Loc-Tite tip. When I had the seat off (again) I noticed that the rear brackets are (supposed) to be held to the plastic seat pan by two little screws in each. One of mine had gone and its mate loose. Turns out there are tiny nuts in the plastic pan that not secured terribly well. My nut had flipped over sideways, I had to flip it back square with a pick. I was able to match up the (tiny) missing screw out of my parts stash but it was very much an oddball. Really difficult to tighten these suckers, even pressing hard on the cushion. Even harder to get them to start after you've taken one out. So actually instead of Loc-Tite I believe giving them a little tighten and then putting a dab of like hot glue or other glue over the head of the screw might be better preventative maintenance. It would at least keep you from losing the screws maybe
If I ever take the upholstery off my seat this is something I will definitely improve upon with some larger nutserts or something. |
brake pads
Front & Rear brake pads - EBC FA86 . I have installed them and they improve braking. There is also EBC FA86HH That are supposed to be better in the dirt.
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Quote:
When no info is available, I use the fastener size and the threaded material to determine torque values. I have never experienced a failure doing this in 30 years. Example for metric bolts... https://i.postimg.cc/zBRrSv0K/Metric...rque-Chart.png |
Intake Boot dimensions!
Here are measurements taken by GigaXi with photos:
Thank you! https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=11 |
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