what is this GY200?
 

Local bike for sale $300. says GY200 on it , all other decals gone . Owner says it doesn't run, needs a new motor because when he runs it , it makes banging sound. 373 miles on it. I'm tempted to get it for a project. Are motors available for these? Anyone know make or model or year mfg? thanks rj
https://images.craigslist.org/00j0j_...Qf_600x450.jpg

Yamoto GY200. They were kinda popular in 2005. Not exactly sure of the year though.

Looks just like my 2008 Jialing with the plastics on it. I just compared the pics and the plastics appear identical. Check the engine number. There will be letters before the 163fml. That may help identify it.

motor number is JL163FML 060G0013
I went ahead and bought it for a project to do with my son. May be a 2005 he thought. Had tool kit but no manual or decals telling who made it. Anyone know of online owner's or parts manuals , thanks, rob

Same as mine. JL is for Jialing. Mine was sold under the name HiSun.

Did you find out what the "sound is"? Maybe they adjusted the valves wrong making the loud tap/bang noise?

No haven't tried starting it yet. Removed battery to charge and gave bike a wash. Hasn't been started for 1 1/2 years so I thought I'd have son drain oil to see if there is any metal in oil and strainer. Then take carb off and clean it and air cleaner. Put fresh oil in and try and run it to see what's going on with it. Since it's supposed to be a learning experience for him it may take awhile till its running. Hopefully within a week.
I'm hoping that the reputation of these motors about being bullet proof will hold up and it's something simple. The motor oil looked black and not up on the stick very far. I'm thinking original owners (I'm 3rd owner) may of put it together and not check oil level? The foot pegs are put on backwards so they fold frontwards. So may not of been setup from the beginning very well, rj

My roketa with the same engine ive been told not to trust the dipstick....use the sight glass

thanks Angus67, How much oil does owners manual say to put in?
is there a owners manual online to look at?
Spark plug threads are kinda buggered up from cross threading. applied grease and eased it in and out to straighten threads back up. >:(
PVC thingy hose by horn is crispy critters. Is that a necessary thing to keeped hooked up or can I plug where hose goes in motor and remove it? :tdown:
Operator Footpegs are put on backwards so they fold to the front. :ohno:
Air cleaner boot from air cleaner to carb not even hooked up. Looks like boot is to short to reach carb? :hmm:
Air cleaner seem is split at glue joint. What works for gluing back together? :wtf:
Sorry for the pesky questions.
The bike truly looks like it has 375 miles on it so my fingers are still crossed that it will be like the Pheonix. rj

Just add oil slowly until the oil level is at the upper line. Bike level of course. . My air box tube didnt reach the carb either. Get a foam clamp on filter

Done today:
Took airbox loose and pushed it onto carb, tightened the clamp and then was able to get 1 mounting screw at bottom of airbox . Good enough for now.:zzz:
Gas tank seems to have a small leak up above the petcock where the extension plastic piece is connected to the tank body. Ran a bead of gasket sealer RTV around where it connects to body of tank and is ultrasonically welded ??? . We'll see if that stops leak. :)
Took apart petcock and cleaned it and lube up the rubber parts to get it to turn easier.
Fresh oil in motor up to almost top peek-a-boo line, Fresh non ethanol gas in tank.:clap:
Tried starting it and it tried running a few times. I defiantly heard the noise he was talking about. Like a loud rocker tapping the valve only louder. The battery only lasted a few minutes then I tried kick starting it. It was hard to kick over for a 200. Kinda like there is binding ????
Is this a push rod motor or OHC?
Does it have a decompression thingy on the cam to ease starting?
How hard is it to inspect the valve train? Pop off the valve cover and look for what?
Thanks for all your guys help. Thankfully I'm not in a big hurry to get it going with the weather still cold and enjoyed working on it with my son this afternoon.
What would you guys look at next as far as trouble shooting?
I wish I could find an online parts manual or owners manual so at least I could see inside motor parts and understand the bike better.
thanks, rj

It should be an OHV engine. It doesn't have a compression realease but It also only has around 9:1 compression, so it should not need a compression release.

Going off of the information given in your last post, I would suspect that one of the lash adjusters is either backed way off, or broken/missing, OR it has a bent push rod or rocker arm. I think a littlle exploration is in order. I would start by simply removing the valve cover.

The good news is, most of these parts are cheap and easy to get.

Hope to get the valve cover off tomorrow and have a look see. What is behind the large slotted screw cap on LH side of cylinder? thanks rj

Check out my antics with a similar bike: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=12200


Mine is a Roketa, but it was also known as a Shineray. It's an OHC engine and the number stamping lied on mine; it's 200cc, and not actually 163FMI (which would be a 125 with a 63mm bore). It's quite similar to an XR200 motor, just on a slightly larger scale. It's referred to as a CB200 in China.


The reason the gas tank leaks is due to the really long petcock. I removed the tank shrouds (they were broken anyway) and switched to a much shorter petcock.


This is my filter of choice: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-42mm-...9X0l39&vxp=mtr


I'm betting the cam chain tensioner is the source of the noise.

The thing on the side of the cylinder that looks like a large screw is the pivot pin for the cam followers. Leave it in place when removing the cylinder.

I was not able to get the valve cover completely off on mine due to the frame and large welds interfering. Your engine SHOULD be a push rod type if it's a mid 2000's model. I'm recovering from a flu bug but hope to get my engine out this week. Sounds like we'll be working on our Jialing's at about the same time!

Here's a photo of mine:

So popped the valve cover off today. Nothing looked trashed. Exhaust valve had no wiggle while intake did. So will adjust them soon and see if it starts up. rj

Is it a CG pushrod motor?

Yes I believe so. I can see 2 rods coming up from left side of motor that push on the rocker arms. There is no chain or cam shaft on top anyway. I'm not real familiar w the push rod type of motors. Are they good ,bad or?
Slow going as I'm self-annoyed with a plastic injection molding business and my son and I are trying to stay up with orders right now running machines so bike is a back burner project.
So far only mechanical damage I've found is the hose from cylinder head to the emission thingy was burnt badly in 2 and the exhaust heat was melting the bottom of gas tank. Not sure if that means anything evil mechanical wise but I think I will remove it all together and plug port on carb and hole coming out of cylinder that emission gizmo connects to. The cylinder hole is black with exhaust carbon. to be continued, rj

Sounds like one the much-beloved CG pushrod motors; they're one of my guilt pleasures. The TT250 and the Hawk (among many others) use that motor, and parts are easy to find.

Alrighty then, after work my son and I adjusted the exhaust valve using a .003 thou feeler gage which is close to .07 mm I think. The valves are probably now at around .004/.005. Didn't adjust the intake valve as it was probably .005/.006"
It fired up and ran for a bit but we didn't have gas tank on it so probably ran out of fuel.
The tick noise went away I first heard.
We plugged off the 1/4" hose from carb with a dowel and had the hole coming out of the cylinder head open and exhaust came out of it and smoked a rag we held over it.
So a couple of questions?
1) What should I set valve clearance at? Are both the same?
2) I'll make a plate to cover the Air recirculation thingy hole in the cylinder head so exhaust wont come out. I'm assuming that it is a direct hole into the exhaust port so exhaust will come out?
3) On the header pipe below the spark plug is a fatter part maybe 4" long inline with the header. Is that the catalytic converter?
4) Now that it ran, how noisy are these motors because I think I hear noise from bottom end like noisy crank bearings but don't know if this is normal to these motors or not.
5) After we plug the air recirc hole in head we'll put tank on and see if we can just run it sitting there for 3-5 minutes and see what it sounds like after sitting for the past 1 1/2 years.
6) I can kick start it but trying electric start just sucks battery down and wont start with electric starter
7) do these have a counter balance in the motor?
Anything else we should check on it?
Thanks for all your help guys, Rob

1) For these push rod motors I always did what CSC recommended and set the valves as close to 0.07mm as I could get.

2) Easy enough to make a block off plate for that "exhaust/emissions port"

3) That "EGG" sometimes has what some consider a "Catalytic Converter" stuff inside it, the way the exhaust bends sometimes the only way to know is scope it with a camera or cut it open :hehe:

4) I hear some "tics, hums, and warbles" when our bike is running, but these engines are not built to be "luxuriously quiet" after all, more like "Honda Type R" engines from the 90's... lots of random things you can hear, lets you know the C-Tech is working :p but without actually hearing your engine I have no clue if those sounds are "normal" or not

7) Can't see the "counter balance" from the first pic you posted up, but I do need glasses for a reason :lmao:

I also noticed tonight rear wheel was missing 3-4 spokes. How'd that happen in 375 miles? :crazy: Where can they be bought from? The nipples are still in the wheel and its holding air, so we got that going for us. rj

Since Azhule answered your questions, I'll just add / ask a couple things.

Where does the 1/4" hose connect to the carb? I'd be curious to see that.

Where does the large vent hose on top of the motor (just below the carb) connect?

Spokes might be the same length as old XR200 18" rims.

2. That is actually a port designed to receive fresh air for a more complete burn. I don't think it actually works, which is why most of us ditch it. Mine came with a plate from the factory.
3. Try chasing something down the header to see if you feel a major restriction. Perhaps some mechanic's wire. If there's a cat in there, cut it out. If you do, I recommend cutting maybe 3/4 of the way around, so you don't change the angle or length. After gutting the cat, you can weld the piece back on.
4. They're noisy, but more from the top end.
7. Yours does not have a CB.

Weld, 1/4" hose attaches to top of rubber carb manifold in front of carb, not to carb , my bad.
Large vent hose connects to cylinder head RH side ,not valve cover, just in front of spark plug. rj

May we see a pic of where the large vent hose connects to the cylinder head? I'm quite curious about that.

Attachment 11795
the hose is burnt in two >:( just above where it goes into the cylinder head. The other large hose goes back under seat by left turn signal and has a filter on it I think. The smaller 1/4" hose with wire wrapped around it above the valve cover goes to top of intake manifold. rj

Now that I learned how to insert pics from my computer, here we go.
Attachment 11796

Attachment 11797

Attachment 11798
In pic #3 anyone know what the elongated holes are for in the bracket attached to the fork leg?

Attachment 11799
pic#4 gas tank damage from broken hose letting exhaust heat up plastic tank.

That broken hose connection on the cylinder head looks to be part of the air injection system that introduces fresh air to the exhaust. That whole shebang can be removed if you so desire it. You just need to make a block off plate for the head where that hose fitting bolts on. You can then remove the rest of that system if you so desired, and simply cap off any open connections.

Where there some problems with chinese bikes breaking rear spokes? Mine has about 6 broke with 375 miles on it . Bike doesn't appear that it was riden by Evil Knievel so was wondering if they over tightened or used wrong bend from factory or swapped inside for outside spokes? rj

That looks super clean rj. Those motors are bullet proof.
My old GY2 (2006) never broke spokes but if I remember right, Blackbike broke some spokes on his new one.

So I redid the valve clearance to .005" exh and .004" intake. Moved carb slide needle clip one notch down to raise it. started nicely and ran.
But is blowing blue smoke out exhaust like a 2 stroke and has a knocking in motor over and above happy tappy valves.
What do I need to do to take top end apart? Remove Valve train and cylinder head so I can see if I can tell anything from inside cylinder. Since its a pushrod motor do I need to keep the valves and cam timed or does it not need to like on a OH cam with chain? thanks rj

Interesting layout of the fitting on the head; I've only ever seen them mounted horizontally. I agree with MD that you can remove the whole deal if you wish. I would. I ditched that awful air box and I use this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-42mm-...lZ7wmd&vxp=mtr


I can't imagine what those fork leg brackets are for.


The cat could be full of oil, which would help to explain the smoking. Doesn't explain the knocking, though.


Glad to see that the gas tank wasn't completely perforated by exhaust. That would be a ride that ended badly. Can that spacer (that is currently sealed with silicone) be removed to allow mounting the petcock directly to the tank?

Not sure on the petcock spacer coming off. Looks to be sonically welded?

HB has kindly posted this in the past: https://josemaco.files.wordpress.com...h-62ktjam5.pdf It's likely to be a CG125, but the procedures will be identical.

thanks Weld, just what I needed to see inside workings of engine. Will take top end apart and see whats up, rj

Wow I'm actually having this same issue with trying to find out where the 1/4 in hose in front of the spark plug is suppossed to go

was wondering about that , thanks ,rj

I Ran it this morning for 5-10 minutes oil smoke did seem to burn out, knock still there. But it runs and idles otherwise.
I'll run it again tomorrow morning and see if it smokes just for kicks and giggles.
I broke down an ordered a new motor on Ebay.
At this point , I'm busy with work and time better is spent making money then trying to take engine apart and try and fix it. Maybe later on take it apart and see what's up with it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LIFAN-2...72.m2749.l2649
rj

rjmorel - Since we both have essentially the same bike manufactured by Jialing, I'd certainly be interested in how the Lifan engine works out for you. My Jialing needs major work, but I have another 163fml made by Loncin that so far, appears in good condition. If all of my current options fail, I'll also be purchasing a Lifan. The one thing I noticed is that their engine does not come with the sprocket cover. Hopefully the one off your Jialing will fit.

Keep us posted and don't forget the pics, please. :thanks: