new chain for TT250
 

I'm hoping to find a better quality chain than what CSC recommended here, like an O-ring version of this. Anyone have any suggestions?


This one was mentioned when I said I want to go down to a 16T front / 45T rear sprocket, and he said I'd need to remove 1.5 to 2 links from that one.



https://cscmotorcycles.com/chain-428...g-b-for-tt250/

Just a suggestion, but if you're changing the chain and both sprockets, you may want to consider going to a 520 chain with a sprocket combination that gives you a similar final ratio to the sprocket combination you listed (which is a 2.813 ratio). A 520 chain and sprockets are considerably more robust and will last longer. Combinations of 520 sprockets that would be close to the same final gearing would be 12/34 (2.833 ratio) or 13/37 (2.846 ratio). Just buy a 115 link, or longer, 520 chain and cut it to fit as needed.

And this is why I come here :yay:. I figured there would a different configuration, I just knew CSC sold the 45 and 16 as their lowest so went "yup that's what I'll do". I'll do some research and see what I can find. (something like this? https://www.steahlyoffroad.com/catal...t/view/id/2397) (Or gold, is that better? https://cjdesignsllc.com/product/srt...hain-120-link/)


What kind of sprockets should I be searching for, other than that amount of teeth?

Take a look at the third post in the sticky https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331. That should give you some resources as to what to look for. Brands of chain can be a matter of personal preference, but for what it's worth, if you're set on going with an o-ring type sealed chain, I'd look for an "x-ring" chain. The shape of the seals between the plates on an x-ring chain generally do a better job of keeping contaminants out of the pins and their bushings. You may want to do some searching on here to see if anyone has run into issues with 520 o-ring (or x-ring) chain causing any fitment concerns as it is a little wider than standard 520 chain. I haven't crossed that bridge yet myself so I don't know if it's an issue or not.

That Gearing Commander website is pretty neat. I'm actually wondering if I'm going in the wrong direction, as it looks like my top speed RPM wouldn't change much, which is what I'm going for (I've stopped caring much about the low end torque). Now maybe I'm thinking just keep the front sprocket where it is at 17T and just change the rear down to 45T. The graph shows at 50mph:


STOCK = 17T / 50T = 6346 RPM
CURRENT= 17T / 47T = 5965 RPM
CUSTOM = 17T / 45T = 5711 RPM


Whereas if I try my first suggestion or the other:
16T / 45T = 6068 RPM
12T / 34T = 6113 RPM
So the above two aren't really hitting where I'm aiming for.





IF I WENT WITH 17T / 45T combo, could I still use a 520 chain? I've found some info out there but it's a little over my head at the moment so just looking for a direction to look.

Just curious, do you use the bike more for road? If that’s the case, I would go the bare chain meaning no o-rings. Another thought having a bigger front sprocket can sure help if the chain gets on the looser side between adjustments. Just my thoughts…

I do, but I still try and spend time on dusty limestone trails as often as possible so it does get very powdery underneath. The chain they put on when I bought it was the upgraded O-ring chain, but I think the riding around my neighborhood during winter when I first got it took it's toll with the salt, as I now have a handful of very tight kinks. But never really had too much issue with it stretching, after maybe 2000mi it seemed to stay put.

UPDATE: CSC just told me "those sprockets only use a 428 chain, the 520 does not fit". Given that I go with their 17 and 45, which is what I'll probably do, so I think I have that part figured out.


Lastly, the chain. Looking at 428 X-ring chains, I come up with these two (at just this seller). Am I on the right track here?

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...x-ring-chain-p
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...series-chain-p


Am I correct in thinking as long as I have MORE links than needed, I'll be fine and can just remove the ones I don't need? I did acquire a chain breaker tool.

I have noticed that the 428 chains are reasonable in price and some even come with the chain breaker off of Amazon. With that thought and if you ride or commute most on the street then the x and o ring type chains could reduce the mpg your looking for because of friction. Just my thought…

Done. Ordered the CSC sprockets and the DID x-ring from Rocky Mountain (someone actually listed a 2021 TT250 in the reviews and said it works, so good enough for me!). Hooray for safety upgrades.

Just remember that the x ring may help the chain life, but there is no x or o ring between the chain and sprocket…

How do I figure out how many links to leave in the new chain with the new sprocket tooth count? I got the D.I.D. 428 VX X-Ring chain, a 17T front, and a 45T for the rear.


It looks like Gearing Commando has something about it, but I didn't know how to interpret the "sprocket distance" field box.



Should I just eyeball it, put it on, keep removing one link at a time until I'm at the right spot to pull up the slack with the adjuster plates?

Install the new sprockets on the bike, put the axle about where you want it, wrap the chain around the new sprockets, then mark where you need to break the chain. If in doubt, err on the chain being too long. You can always shorten it, whereas lengthening it involves having two master links which is less than ideal.

Also, it's good practice to grind flat the peened head of the pin that you're going to use the chain breaker on. Otherwise, the peened end can slightly elongate the pin bushing when the chain breaker pushes it through.

I know you got yours, but I got the NICHE Gold 428 X-Ring Chain (130 links) last year. So much better than the stock, which was still stretching after 1k miles. I paid a bit over $40, but now it’s $10 cheaper. Anyway, nice chain for the money.

Tomorrow is the day, I'm a little nervous. I noticed my chain breaker doesn't have a press connection to fit the master link on, but saw some videos of how to safely smoosh it into place so hopefully that will go smoothly. Any other tips that come to mind?

The fact that you're aware it's supposed to be a pressed fit is half the battle right there. I'm not sure which videos you've seen but I'm sure they'll help. Having a proper plate pressing tool is handy, but not 100% necessary as there are work-arounds as you've no doubt seen in the videos.

Best of luck with a successful installation!

The guy I saw used an old link that was cut off to press against the side of the new master link, then a regular clamp to squeeze it down carefully.


Tapering the master link pins is where I'm scratching my head, without using the special tool.



Also, does it sound like a good idea to lay the new chain next to the old one to measure it, and remove the new links to keep it 1-2 links longer than the old one? I'm sooo worried about removing a link too many.

Did you get a chain with a rivet-type master link, or a clip-type master link? A proper rivet tool is pretty essential to ensure a secure fit with a rivet-type master link. Although there are alternative methods, it's not something you'd want to chance. Losing a chain while riding can be pretty dangerous if it wraps up in such a fashion to lock the rear wheel. If it wraps around the countershaft sprocket it wouldn't be as dangerous but could cause some pretty extensive damage. Best case for a lost chain is that it just drops off on the road. Even that can be precarious depending on the situation. A clip-type master link doesn't necessarily require any special tools but you do need to make sure the outer link plate is squarely pressed over the pins and properly seated, but not over-seated so as to cause a bind in the links, before installing the clip. It's not rocket science but you can bend the link plate if you go about it in a ham-fisted manner.

As for being worried about removing too many links, just wrap the chain around the sprockets, on the bike, and leave one end of the chain at about the 2 o'clock position on the rear sprocket. Then bring the other end of the chain up to meet that end of the chain that's already on the sprocket while pivoting back as many links as you need to in order to make the ends meet. Physically mark the chain with a grease pencil, crayon, paint dab, or whatever so you're absolutely sure you'll be shortening the chain on the right link. I think that once you go to do it you'll realize it's not as complicated as you may be thinking it is.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...x-ring-chain-p


This is the one, but I can't remember if I saw a master clip. Well if it is the other, I'll have to run to a store to get the proper tool, that's why I'm nervous since this operation is crucial to maintaining life.

DID makes both a clip-type and rivet-type master link for that series chain. I'm not sure which it ships with. Maybe both? The clip-type makes for an easier installation, but the rivet-type is more secure, at least when riveted properly it's more secure. The downside to the rivet-type is that if you change gearing often back and forth from on-road to off-road gearing, and that gearing change requires a change in the chain length, you have to replace the rivet-type every time. They're a one-shot deal.

I've seen a guy do a riveted master link with nothing but hand tools. Pliers, vice grips, some wood, a center punch, and a hammer.

Specialty tools make it easier/faster, but definitely not needed.

Well I caved and ran to the shop for a $30 nicer set (on sale from $90!!). Then got home and see the link came with both types of connections. Well... Might as well rivet 'er on! I can see now judging by how thin these clips are why it's a weak point.

I prefer clip style master links for off roading. I just carry a spare.

Lord knows I've made do with less than the ideal tools at times, but at least having some knowledge of what the proper tools do, and how they do it, can make a work-around tool solution a lot easier to implement. I've been known to steal the old quote, "I've done so much with so little for so long that I can now do anything with nothing" from time to time. ;)

The MacGyver generation

MacGyver is my hero. I got into electronics repair over 20yrs ago largely due to him, and wanted a dirtbike since I was kid because of him blasting through a fiery village in Burma on some kind of olive drab dual sport.

I used to use the continuous link style (rivet type master link) on big bikes. But I also use the clip type on my dirt bikes. They are much easier to deal with.

Some people are afraid of dropping their chain mid-ride. I suppose it is possible but I have never had this happen even after lots of removal/replace for lubrication. I think it is important to make sure that the open end of the clip is on the trailing side. Maybe if that convention isn't followed, the clip can get pushed off by debris. Makes sense.

The clip type master link is standard on a KTM 250 SX (motocross). It must be pretty dependable!

And yes, always keep a roll of bailing wire, some paper clips, rope, old wires and a soldering iron, duct tape, and a bearing press kit handy. Wasn't that the Army's diesel KLR project MacGyver was riding through the burning town ?! lol

Success!!! Turns out it only had the clip style link included. And to make things even better, the one on there had a clip so I didn't have to cut it off, AND the 130 link chain I got (DID 428 VX X-Ring https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...x-ring-chain-p) was a dang-gone perfect fit for the 17T front and 45T rear sprockets, so no cutting was needed whatsoever. It adds maybe 3-5mph to the top of each gear, so before I was at 6k rpm at 55mph, now it's 60mph which I can hold easily. Thanks so much for the help everyone!


And an added bonus, as I pulled into work this morning, this happened...

https://i.ibb.co/dkvm7LZ/20240415-064816.jpg

YES! That's the one! What a beauty...
https://i.ibb.co/ZHWGyYG/Kawasaki-KL...Motorcycle.jpg

Diesel KLR!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFXihbms4IQ

Glad you got it all sorted. Congratulations on 10k miles!

Wish I could find that guy that chuffed at me and said "pshh, you'll be lucky if you can hit 3k on a China bike before you're stranded on the road bro". Knocking on wood.