2021 Xpro Titan DLX
 

Hi all,

Just added an X-Pro Titan DLX to my resume of China bikes and will use this thread to document its travels including order process, build, and mods

One thing I'd like to point out right off the bat is that unlike the well known bikes on this forum, ie.. Hawk, Brozz, TBR, Orion RXB.. the Xpro Titan DLX has much less of an online presence and i had to do some research across various threads to acquire a good idea of what i'd be getting..
Big Thanks to Plump Kibbles who has been invaluable during this process!

Here goes:

The Search:
After my son started feeling that he was outgrowing his Tao DBX1, we were fortunate enough to sell it 15 months after purchase for the same price of $850! He wanted to use my Brozz Recon and I agreed sending me on a search for something new.. I quickly found out that alot of bikes were out of stock and of the remaining bikes, Hawk, TBR, BSR Raven, Titan DLX and Orion RXB250L I had some work to do with regards to comparison..
I'm a bang for the buck kind of person as most on this forum probably are as well.. The Hawk was sitting around $1700, The TBR at $1700, The Raven at $1600, the Titan at $1800 and then the new RXB250 at a whopping $2600.. Yes it does have the extra gear, counterbalance and some other upgrades but at a 40% premium i ruled it out, plus it wouldnt be available until after December, nope..
I then narrowed it down between the Raven 250 and the Titan DLX.. for the extra $200 the Titan to me presented the much better deal, with the better suspension, swingarm, frame, engine being overhead cam with a bit more power out of the box, and about 30 pounds lighter, it soon became the clear winner. For those who may not know, the Xpro Titan DLX is basically the same as an Orion RXB250L (223cc version) with the exception of not having adjustable forks and rear shock (other than pre-load)

Ordering:
PowersportsMax and Amazon had the bike in stock.. PSM at $1800 delivered and Amazon at $2080 delivered.. no brainer..
I read good stuff about PSM so i ran with it..I did try to call them several times but never got through, not sure why, but i was able to get a response via email.
I ordered on Saturday October 2nd and the bike was delivered on Friday October 8th.. pretty amazing turn-around time

Delivery:
The bike was delivered in the standard metal crate.. it was beaten up with a couple metal supports bent and the cardboard in taters.. the most concerning thing was when i noticed oil all over the bike.. I checked the whole bike over while on the truck and did not find any frame or engine damage.. my theory is that they must have turned the crate upside down or on its side at some point allowing the shipping oil to leak out onto the rear most parts of the bike including the seat, ugh.. I took pics (attached) including some damages and sent to PSM to ask what they will do..
The damages include a scuffed up fork cap and a couple deep scratches on top of the exhaust rear section.

Assembly:
Pretty easy to assemble..
-connect up the wire harnesses in front and then attach the headlight assembly to the triple tree using the forward 2 bolts that secure the handlebars
- attach the handlebars using 4 supplied allen bolts with lock-nuts
- install the front wheel with larger spacer on clutch side. make sure to grease the axle and I slathered on either side of the hub generously.. separate the brake pads using a screwdriver or like to allow space for the rotor.. attach the caliper.. attach the axle and wheel and tighten
- attach the pair of dangling wires to the front brake onto each metal terminal. I believe this is what requires you to hold the front brake when starting
- attach the left and right mirrors
- attach the shock mount at 2 connection points. be sure to slather grease on these points before tightening
- attach the rear license/light assembly under the fender. I used electric tape to wrap the hanging wires and then zip tied up to the top frame rail
- attach the left and right side plastics
- remove the graphic protective covering
- attach the battery terminals.. this one caused me alot of grief due to me not paying attention to the terminal stamps.. the positive lead just happened to be closest to the negative side terminal (throttle side) and the negative lead was closest to the positive terminal.. in my anxious state i didnt pay attention to the + and - stamps and just connected as i assumed and pop goes the fuse.. i was baffled.. i popped a few more fuses while disconnecting and searching for loose or frayed or wires touching the frame and pop pop each time.. i finally i kicked myself when i realized i had the terminals switched.. dont make that same goofball mistake, wasted several hours there.

Pre-Maintenance:
- I drained what was left in the engine which amounted to prob half a quart and then replaces with 1qt Rotella 15w40. Note.. unlike the Brozz/Hawk/etc there is no bottom drain bolt and you drain from the clutch side removing the spring-loaded filter screen.
- I tightened some spokes that were loose. I have a spoke tool on order as i still need to true the front wheel
- Oiled the foam air filter with K&N Filter Oil
- I attempted to adjust the valves and by turning the crank and peering in the peephole you will see a dot or small line.. i rotated a couple of times and each time grabbed the rocker but it was tight. As i use the grab method to know when its at TDC, i will need to go back and do this another time where i remove the plug and insert something in the head to see when the piston is at the top and then adjust
- I adjusted the pre-load on the rear shock by turning the ring down and then locking with the lock-ring
- applied Dawn to the seat to scrub and wash out the oil residue and cleaned the other parts of the bike that were oiled up

Start-Up/Initial Ride:
You need to hold the front brake when starting. After that she started on the 2nd attempt. I put her on choke but was able to take off soon after and she maintained an idle.
The bike sounds very good as is, not too quiet and not too loud. I'd say its slightly quieter than the exhaust i have on my Brozz
The shifting was a bit notchy but overall the short initial ride was fine, no issues, she ran great. I was keeping her under 6k rpm and will continue that for the first 500 miles. I believe redline is a bit higher than the Brozz and can go up to 10k rpm. I only travelled in the community so only hit about 35mph.

Plans:
I plan to do the following next:
- adjust the valves soon
- remove the rear axle and grease the axle and hubs
- grease the swingarm
- replace the stock plug with an NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9
- replace the stock carb probably with either a VM26 or PE30. not sure which is better yet (@Megadan, feel free to chime in)
- gut the stock exhaust
- replace the fork oil with 15W oil
- cut off some of the rear plate assembly for a cleaner look
- i may replace the chain with an X-Ring 428 chain.. the stock chain does look good but not sure if its an o/x ring or just a fancy gold color
- get her registered, hopefully not to difficult as Plump Kibbles may have been the guinea pig for this process here in VA

I will add to this thread as i learn more about the bike.. thanks

Great introduction to the bike. My friends and I decided same as you and plan to buy 5 at the same time. Different colors so we won't jump on the wrong bike lol. I'm also interested in your carb swapping experiences. Please keep us up to date.:thanks:

Went on a longer ride yesterday, about 30 miles.. a mix of street, gravel and a dirt trail.
Overall, she is performing great. The 30+ pounds of weight loss compared to the Brozz makes itself easily known. On the dirt trail there is a very steep and long down hill that i went on and if it weren't for the shipping oil that made its way to the rear brake, it was fine.. going up the hill was very fun, trucked up in first gear very easily with plenty of power on tap. As im limiting the revs to 6k at this time, there will be more to be had once i pass the 500mi mark and start opening her up.
With regards to the carb, I will probably swap to the VM26 and run a 100 main (i believe stock is 95) and center the clip on the needle.
You can mod the stock carb easily by cutting grooves into the bolt heads and change the main but the needle wont be adjustable (assuming same carb as the Brozz PZ30)
Also, to update regarding the damages, PSM responded back and claim that they dont have replacement parts on hand and offered $30 and i accepted.

That's awesome! Depending on the name brand, i'm sure there is one that you could have gotten that would have costed as much as all 5 Titans..
I can tell right off the bat that this bike will easily do everything i will ever ask of it at a fraction of the cost.. and although underpowered, you really dont need a ton of power for casual dirt riding (non-MX racing).. and its nice to be able to use all of the available power at any time without worry of getting in too much danger.

Today I adjusted the valves to .004/.004. They were super tight, maybe at .001 or less.
While i was at it, i fabricated a pair-valve blockoff plate and capped the vacuum line on the intake manifold. This allows easier access to work on the exhaust valve.
Some notes about the valve adjustment..
You can remove the side plastics and then unbolt the tank and simply slide it backwards and out of your way.
I found it hard to find TDC as the mark is a fairly small vertical line. To be safe, i removed the spark plug and turned the crank until the piston was at the top of the cylinder and then cross-referenced that with the TDC line on the crank.
Once i did that i could slightly wiggle the rocker arms and knew i had it.
You will need to unbolt the horn mechanism and also unhook the 2 pair valve lines for in order to access the front valve.
Remove the valve caps with a 15/16" open end wrench
Loosen the locknuts from each valve stem.. mine were on super tight
Loosen the valve stem to allow access to your feeler guage
I used a deck screw with a wire cap in order to tighten the valve stem down onto the feeler guage.. thanks @JerryHawk, read that in an old post of yours
Since i wanted to have them set at .004/.004, i tightened down on a .005 feeler guage and then locked the nut.. this allowed a .004 to gently slide in with slight rubbing but would not allow the .005 again, which is what you want
I put everything back together and started her up, sounds nice and healthy and now i have a little leeway as they may tighten back up a bit between now and when i do again at 500mi

I am so JEALOUS!! Love the color!

We're buying the Xpro Titan, just the street legal model. Titled for trips to Mexico.

Added some grip puppies to the stock grips.. I also dug out my old PZ30 from the Brozz and a bag of jets.. plan to shim the needle and increase the main on the stock PZ30 for now to get it out of the lean condition its shipped with

Those grip puppies work great. I've installed them on all my bikes. Really help with the vibrations plus with my big hands it feels more comfortable.

Yes, i put them on for the comfort and they work great.. and come to think of it, i remember heavily deliberating the choice to go with the Brozz in the past and one big factor was the fact that it is counterbalanced and shouldn't vibrate like crazy. but to be honest, i don't really notice any extra vibrations on this non-counterbalanced engine.. so its not that big of a deal afterall..

Worked on the carb today as i could see from the plug she was lean on idle and hard to start. A couple of discoveries:
- the stock PZ30 has a metal cap over the idle screw, you can twist it off with plier to reveal the idle screw (so stupid imo).
- there is no idle air/fuel mixture screw
- pilot is a 37 / main is a 102

Since I had my old stock PZ30 from the Brozz, i decided to use it instead. I used 2 shim washers under the needle, kept the 37 pilot (Brozz was a 34) and changed the main to a 110. Turned the a/f out 2.5 turns.
Started right up and a short ride reveals it to be much snappier and no deceleration popping!

There should be a cap over the idle/mixture screw right next to the bowl on the bottom of the carb. Some are plastic and some are brass. The brass plug usually comes right out just from trying to drill it.

Thanks, didnt realize that. in any case, it was easier to just go with my stock Brozz PZ30 which was in practically new condition.
At this point the only other performance mod im looking into is removed the stock cat and the 4 degree timing key.. not sure if there is any benefit to going with an aftermarket carb at this or that point?

Really excited to hear your experience in the carb tuning area. You mentioned there is no air/fuel mixture screw and then mentioned turning a/f out 2.5 turns. What are you turning 2.5 turns? Or just a keyboard mistake? Thanks

I had my old stock PZ30 from my other bike, Brozz Recon (which im currently running a PE30 carb on) and i just used this carb instead on the Titan as its the same exact carb but with the a/f screw exposed.. i adjusted the a/f on this carb and its on the bike now and running well.

From my research it seems that the stock PZ30 when tuned properly is adequate for these 250's when basic bolt-on mods have been performed like air filter, exhaust, cdi, timing key, etc. When you did into the engine internals such as port/polish, cam, increasing bore, etc then its time to move up to a carb like a PE30/PWK30.

But i'd love to hear opinions on this.. on my Brozz, i didnt jump to the PE30 until i had the port/polish work done.. prior to that i was running a tuned PZ30 with exhaust and air pod

Added a rev box orange CDI and spark plug wire I picked up off Amazon.. Also removed the side plastics, i think it looks more sleek now..
Note: the plug wire that comes with this kit is a bit on the long side, so I zip-tied by the horn to prevent it from melting

PSA: went for a ride today and she stalled out on me while riding.. Couldn't get her to start after.. I opened tbe gas cap and heard the pressure release.. It seems the fuel cap vent valve was installed wrong or defective from the factory causing pressure buildup.. After replacing the cap she fired right up.. I'll have to look at it closer next chance I get in an effort to remedy the issue.

Update re: gas cap

To remedy the issue, simply pull off the 1" section of tube from the clear ring to the black valve cap (circled in red) and then attach the black cap to the bottom section of tube.
The clear ring piece seems to have let air in but not out.
With that section removed, she is running great and no more stalling out as a result

Added bark busters:

What's the reason for the rev box orange CDI? More rpm? Power?

Its supposed to advance the timing slightly and provide more power at the lower-mid rev range.. it also eliminates the rev limit..
Its a first for me, i got it on recommendation of Plump Kibbles who has the same bike.. im still in break-in mode so keeping under 6k or so for now

One observation i have noticed with this bike is that she is hard to keep running when cold.. it seems i need to raise the idle to around 2k for her to stay running and even when warmed up she doesnt like to go below 1750.. I will have to fiddle with the a/f screw on the carb to try to remedy that.. When the idle is lowered to around 1500 i hear it gasping for air and then eventually stall which i believe indicates being too lean at idle.

That's a sweet bike, especially for the price! Of course, not available in CA. :-(

Update: fixed the hard start and with the need for high idle (2k)..
The stock PZ30 pilot jet at 37 is too small and causing idle to be too lean. The remedy was for me to turn the a/f screw back out another 2 turns.. she now starts right up and can idle at or below 1500 with no issues..

I then decided to update the main to 115 as i was noticing a bog at 3/4 to full throttle..

I also removed the exhaust muffler tip.. gained some throatiness to the sound and between that and the 115 main, she is now running like a raped ape! Very happy :)

Got my VA inspection today and have an appt at DMV on Thursday to title/register. I will provide an update on that afterwards.

A 40 pilot should be the right size.

Update: went to DMV today with MSO, Bill of Sale and form VSA130 in hand.. VSA130 is an offroad conversion to on-road form that Plump Kibbles needed to fill out and have sent to Richmond and then wait 3 weeks for the plate.. Luckily he paved the way for me and future Titan DLX owners here in VA as it was not required and the clerk was able to pull it up in the system with the make/model provided (Koolcnchet/XB88-250)
I was in and out in 15 minutes with new plate in hand.. tax and 2-year registration a cool $130.. great success!

Hey - Deja vu! :tup:

I STILL need to cut'n'gut my stock pipe, but I did pick up the catless pipe on Orion Powersports site. I got the one for the RXB230 - will need an adapter to add about 3in. to attach the muffler. VERY aggressive without the muffler plug, definitely added some ponies too. I don't have a dyno, but I can say it feels like I added at least 5+HP to the mix. The CDI helps I think with starts too - coil and plug wire are way better than stock, hotter, instant power difference felt. The CDI does remove the REV and advances the timing a tad; not sure how much degree but does now feel like something is pulling me when I'm in a lower RPM and give it some throttle. Much better lower end torque curve feels like. I have another CDI that's a 'racing' type, not sure if that is any different. Thinking about that timing key - may have to do that.

I have been pleasantly surprised with my XPro since I got it all figured out. Little power mods here and there - thinking about that bore kit... still want a sixth gear, though lol

If we can get it all coordinated - we need to hit some of the MABDR and get some footage! I have a multi-cam setup on my helmet so I can get front / rear; should be some good shots. But, glad I paved the way for your registration! Wish mine was as easy - MY dmv told me that my bike and paperwork was all fake!! :doh: Got it done though.

I'll get some pics of my project and post 'em up. Btw - if you haven't gotten a skid plate, the Cycra 'full armor' plate for the YZ250 is an exact fit! It is a polymer plate though, not metal - about 60 bucks I think, maybe cheaper now. Has saved me a few times already!!

I'm hearing you on the new CDI. Would you have a link or website to it? Are your comments about horsepower with the stock head pipe and the baffle removed from the muffler? Or with the unresricted head pipe? I'm really learning a lot from your build. Thanks.

This is the CDI we both have on our bikes...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z8R92YT...roduct_details

Plump Kibbles bought the full kit here (https://www.amazon.com/Hity-Motor-Pe...N%2CB07R7HXYYV)
while i bought the stripped down version previously linked, but same CDI in both

He is running his on a bike with the stock header replaced with a catless pipe that Orion sells that will work on the Titan (same bike overall)

Im running the CDI on an otherwise stock bike and between tuning the carb properly and adding this, i definitely feel an increase in power.. ofcourse any hp number i state would just be subjective without a dyno measurement, but i think its definitely worth the $10..

I also read that the cdi box and 4-degree timing key play very well together and are a "must".. i hope to purchase and install that in the near future as well as have my stock cat removed.. with the current gearing and setup, the bike feels great and accelerates pretty quick, ofcourse, you need to bang the gears fairly quickly as well

https://i.ibb.co/GVb5xCM/IMG-20211022-161348-687.jpg
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https://i.ibb.co/J3mXCMp/IMG-20211022-162017-818.jpg
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https://i.ibb.co/fQLTp7W/IMG-20211022-162426-868.jpg

Alright! Once I figured out, again, how to get the pics to show up lol there she be!

I do have the 20 dollar bark busters that are full metal, except obviously the black parts, but do work very well; and hold up very well! I had it fall over on the trailer before registration - smacked pretty hard and absolutely no damages. Definitely saved the levers!

The front sprocket cover is thanks to AliExpress and all of 12 dollars I think? They offer all the colors for the Orion RXB and the XPro Zongshen 230cc - I would recommend the ABS sprocket cover especially if you're converting to 520 chain - the stock cover is too tight and the chain smacks the cover... so, pretty easy fix! And now there is no contact between the chain or any part of the cover.

GPS - figured that'd be neat to include, maybe. Small water / shock proof deal from Fod Sports. I got the Windows mobile version - yes there are Android ones, but the MS one boots way faster.. that matters to me, but maybe not someone else lol absolutely a handy device and I use it to watch my speed too. 5V adapter is included and all mounting stuff.

Booooooost bottle! 20 bucks on Amazon, hooks into the EGR / SAI inlet on the intake - acts like a spring on the intake pressure, helps out immensely on hills and strenuous torque demands. Little 'ol Yamaha trick from back in the day :tup: No, not only for two stroke!!

Muffler - So as you can see, there's a reducer slip joint or lap joint I think they're called, 52mm to 50mm. The new pipe is just barely short around 3in from the muffler slip on. The Orion pipe also isn't a 50mm or 52mm hookup; slightly smaller I think around 48mm.. Anyway, I had to shim the gap on the pipe side to the joint, muffler fit perfect - loctited the bolts / nuts and got everything as tight as I could - no leaks! I know, I was surprised too :lmao:

LED headlight - I think was under 20 bucks on Amazon. For the XPro I would highly suggest clipping the small running light under the main headlight (weird setup..) and keep the wires separated and out of the way. The reason - when switching to LED, the electrical gets confused with the two bulbs one being LED and one incandescent. This causes the LED bulb to be stuck in high or low beam and then usually fries the switch on the bulb itself - went through two LED's before figuring that one out! H4 headlights too, cheapies.

Standard CRF250L tail tidy kit, 28 bucks eBay - comes with the lights and all hardware. The rear light / tag light is integrated on this bike - kinda hate that, but gotta deal with it! This makes it a little better at least, again - all LED.

Pro Taper grips - not as 'cushionie' as the grip puppies I bet. The bike came with some foam / rubber grip covers, but RIPPED when I was putting them on lol.. go me! These do nothing for vibrations, just better grip in general than stock. I use the RockBrothers mountain bike gloves - say what you will, 10mm thick palm padding; bring it! Those are the most comfortable riding gloves I've ever had lol and actually help with the vibes! The new front brake lever has a bigger master cylinder with the aftermarket setup - good plus for braking. Though, tons of brake fade with the stock setup in the rain!!!!!

Cycra YZ250 skid plate - Didn't think that was going to fit, but was pleasantly surprised to see that it did! It is about 4 or 5mm thick polymer - if you don't mind the material it's not that bad. It has been bashed against some rocks and such so far - held up and saved my engine and frame!

Shifter - IMS shifter, much better than stock.. the stock one feels like it should be on a 50cc kids bike. This is awesome - love the extended shift lever, and it is angled so it doesn't hit any part of the engine or get close to it at all. Another cheap Amazon special!

Tube - I believe it's actually for a fuel bottle, but I use it to keep the tools, water bottles, and other things I can stuff in there. It is waterproof and can say it does work pretty well. The new versions have locks on them, so I missed out. I did have to remove the left panel off the plastics to install.

The carb is a Mikuni clone, JP made; maybe it'll last longer than the other one I had. I have a 110 main jet right now, 42 slow jet, and moved the needle one spot higher / richer.

The gearing I have currently is 12T front and 30T rear, 520 pitch. I think I will go up a few teeth in the rear next sprocket change; see if the acceleration is any better. I did the gearing for top speed only, pinged out couldn't hit 65 if I tried downhill with the wind lol Might play around with the 115 jet later, but for now it's running perfect. Need an a/f mix screw adjustment, but that's it.

I can't say how much I LOVE the look of the bike. For just over 1799 brand new (at the time) - compared to the Hawk, and I'm not talking smack, just looked better.... to me. I did look at the Hawks and Apollos and all as well; seems like you can't go wrong. Unless you get a lemon or one that was dropped every time it was moved.. But, an absolute beast off road too!

At first, I installed the blue 'racing CDI': https://www.amazon.com/Glixal-ATMT1-...5046976&sr=8-5

With that one, I did notice a little pickup with the stock pipe and baffle out on the muffler. The baffle is just a decibel reducer, sorta. But does add a few MPH when taken out - like 2.. but hey, more!

Now - without the catalytic converter and EGR / SAI, the fuel rate is MUCH more rich and all the exhaust gasses are exiting the pipe. The EGR / SAI crap pushes dirty air back through your intake. But, with the stock catted muffler I was on a 120 main jet - switched pipes and was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too rich. The orange CDI just fits better and matches the color so, :lmao: but between the orange and blue CDI's I can't tell a difference.

The exhaust pipe on this bike is kinda strange - very weird shape, and all one piece.. no middle pipe and doesn't bolt to the frame in the middle - just on the exhaust port engine side and the muffler... that's it!! :hmm: The stoneman exhaust and the Power Core exhausts won't fit this bike - I have a power core 2 full exhaust just lying around unused. Didn't feel like trying to bend it either.

It's not in the pics, but where the shift lever is engine side, the pipe was rubbing against it. I took the pipe off, saw where the lever was rubbing the pipe, took it out in the shop, placed a piece of wood under the opposite side of the shift lever marks, and beat the s#!* out of it with a hammer :lmao: Now there's PLENTY of room for the shift lever to move! Haha.. I think I can list that under 'custom build' when reselling - right? :D The CDI also has an effect with the aftermarket plug coil too - big, big spark lol I am also running the NGK Iridium DRP8EiX-9 plug; stock is NGK D8EA, too! Didn't know that before buying. But does seem to be better than stock.

Thanks though, man! Though, I may have to keep up with tknj99 on the internal mods! I haven't performed any internal upgrades yet. I really want to try that 280cc big bore kit though - see what this thing can do with more powa!!

WOW, Thanks for the detailed replies to you and Plump Kibbles. Between the two of you I now have a great plan upon delivery. The CDI/coil setup and carb modifications {40 pilot, 115 main} will be on all the bikes before I even start them. I'll look at the other mods as necessary. One question, where is the boost bottle connected on the intake?:thanks:

You will want to remove the EGR plumbing and then can use a thin metal bracket and cut and drill to block off the port on the side of the engine head. After you do that you will find that the intake manifold has a rubber hose line running to it.. this will be removed when you remove the EGR plumbing leaving an exposed port. I cut a short section of rubber line and then used a tire cap to cap that line.. basically that port sucks in clean air and is used by the EGR.
That port is what you will connect the boost bottle line to should you purchase one.

What he said :tup: Got to it before me! Haha

The only thing to keep in mind about that EGR stuff - when you remove it and keep the stock catalytic converter pipe, there is a chance that the CAT will become clogged with time. I haven't had that happen to me luckily - but have read that could happen. If you do go with the boost bottle, every 150mi I uncap one side and drain the gas back into the tank. I don't have as much going into the bottle anymore - I had to run way rich with the stock pipe to get the results I wanted; hopefully not ruining the internals in the process! I can't remember the exact site I got the blocker plate from - Ohio motorcycle or something of that nature - 8 bucks with hardware and a new gasket. Also, my EGR tubing that was routed above the engine was pinched and wouldn't start, and if it did wouldn't stay running long at all. I too had the breather tube debacle on the gas cap, probably common for these!

Note on the CDI's: The adjustable ones won't work with this bike. I was planning to check one out for myself and noticed most all of the adjustable ones are DC - this bike is AC, if I'm not mistaken.. and use all six pins. Nothing will happen if you plug the wrong one up though, just wont start. The orange CDI's are rated the best on every outlet where you can get them. The blue metal one I have too, just bulky-ish and awkward to install.

So I take it there's yet another X-Pro coming soon?! Good on ya, mate! You won't be disappointed!!

No problem, man!

On the 10th pic down, you can see the hose going to the intake manifold inlet from the EGR setup on the 45ish degree bend. I just stuck it above the carb and back around to the bottle. Probably could have used something other than a 3/8 fuel line lol but didn't have anything else.

By the way - removing that EGR / SAI crap takes off about 5lbs of dead weight! Not to mention opens up the engine space - two in one kinda mod :hehe:

I'm wondering if this would work... I watched a video of someone that dremeled out the mount brackets on the timing sensor to move it slightly 'before' where it normally sits and advances the timing. Not sure how much, but did work..

Hmm, that sounds interesting but may be more risky than its worth especially since you'd need to get the flywheel off to do that, and by then youre at the home-stretch and the $22 flywheel key seems like the safest play.

I'm foaming at the mouth to do that flywheel key mod especially since its my one big failure on the Brozz that i posted my trials and tribulations extensively about in the past.. sorta like having a second chance now at the one that got away ;)


Some fun reading if you want on the 4 degree timing key.. and also a lesson in how not to do it:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=brozz+timing

CB strong, ride hard!

Well said! Makes me wonder why we didn't get a "Strongest" sticker ;)

Wishful thinking! CG strong, ride hard!