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2022 Templar X 250 build quality and assembly
This bike was available and sold for about 4 months from Powersportsmax and XProUSA earlier this year. At the time of this edit (late June), XPro has them in stock! You can still get the little brother too (not the "X" model), which has no luggage rack, no adjustable suspension, but still has nearly all the rest of the components. Zuumav is the brand, which is shortened to "ZUMA" on the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin (MCO). It is model X7-CB250F, and the full name of the company is WUYI ZUMA Industry and Trade Co., LTD.
I am going to go through some of the things I did during assembly, and what I found as I put it together. First, the crate was standing on end in the truck when it arrived, and the crate had been damaged. Fortunately, the bike was not damaged. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...50071fc4_z.jpg We took it apart to check nuts and bolts, and to get the carb set up and check out the suspension and frame. The first thing we noticed was the beefy headset and frame construction. An yet this bike weighs only ~260lbs. And that is a 20hp 249cc Zongshen engine. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0a2c4c5c_z.jpg I cleaned up the casting on the clutch and brake lever mounts so that they can be allowed to twist away (instead of break) when it hits the dirt: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f4e5c038_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4598452e_z.jpg The right controls needed to be completely rearranged. They had the throttle roller down in front below the lever and I had to shave off the nub on the starter button housing (right) and lights/turn signal controls (left) because the holes in the handlebar weren't where I wanted them (no pic). But they hold position with just screw tension (and loctite), no problem. Nice quality on the controls and levers. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...251b10dc_z.jpg The tail light wiring was exposed, so I installed a wiring sheath to protect them. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...55cfccd2_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b7589420_z.jpg The exhaust system turns out to be a good quality stainless steel header and stainless steel sprung slip-on. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...915e31fa_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7f4e5962_z.jpg The rebound damping adjust on the rear shock has ~14 clicks. I did not do anything on the preload yet, but it is also adjustable. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0f5c67c1_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5d1127d8_z.jpg A quick pic of the engine mounting hardware and swingarm pivot (WHILE the shock was out) revealed nice heavy duty build quality. And there is a spare chain roller mounted to the left stay there (free spare). That is a 520 chain. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...955a0882_z.jpg The carb can be pulled out on the right side without removing the header. It is tight, but doable. Notice the blue QC marks on the carburetor. I noticed these all over the nuts and bolts on the frame and components on this bike. This is a good manufacturing practice. Also, look at the thick external frame stays. This is a stiff/tough frame. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e47ab088_z.jpg The OEM YouALL carb is a smoothbore. I rejet the main from 120 > 125, and pilot from 40 > 45, and shimmed the needle with just one washer (about 1mm). EDIT 45 pilot was TOO rich. I backed off to #42. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e08ced90_z.jpg The air filter is a large oiled foam dome. Lots of room for high flow. And the intake underneath it has smooth clean lines for good airflow. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ea5586dd_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fee6496f_z.jpg Other build quality clues... Here is a pic of the rear brake cylinder, and the welding work and bear claw foot peg. There are stainless steel Allen bolts instead of Philips screws. The swingarm is cast alloy with welded connectors. It is surprising that this bike isn't heavier. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...51d19d68_z.jpg To give you an idea of the size/scale of the bike, here is is lined up by my GSX1250, the TBR7. This is a full sized enduro. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...20a4cf53_z.jpg |
Thanks for the awesome write-up and pics. Seems like a very nice bike regarding build quality. Please keep us posted as you discover more.
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More info and observations
In no apparent order...
Instead of an equalizer tube between the two lobes of the gas tank, and one fuel line input to the petcock, each lobe of the tank feeds the petcock separately, and there are 3 positions on the petcock valve. One of them is a "dot", and the other two seem identical (capital R). I haven't run out and switched, so I don't know if this is effectively a reserve. EDIT: update... yes, gas in the "other" lobe can act as a reserve (doesn't matter which one). Just switch from "R" to "R", and keep riding. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6099bee5_z.jpg The spark plug wire has a protective sheath around it, but it was laying on the cooling fins of the cylinder! Not cool. But I had saved the massive zip strips that held the bike in the crate (cutting them at the zip side, and pulling out the tail-hate to waste them!). So I repurposed one to hold the Sparkplug wire off the hot cylinder: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4e394af9_z.jpg I took the chain off to remove a link. Then hung it from the garage ceiling and with paper towel blocking blow through, drenched the chain with Champion chain lube aerosol spray. Then wiped off the excess and reinstalled the chain. It looks like lithium grease and silicone based lube. It coated the sprockets after reinstall too. You can see the ZS172FMM-3A engine model number there too. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9af91a91_z.jpg BUT, when I removed the front sprocket cover, BOTH bolts were too tight. The upper came out OK, but the lower one brought the threads with it. crap https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d8d102be_z.jpg EDIT: Fixed-A longer bolt found another 5mm of good threads deeper so it is OK. Lucky break. What else? The swingarm has a proper rear axel slot with a threaded bolt offset. This is actually UNCOMMON in our low budget bikes (which have a square steel swingarm). The thickest part if the swingarm is 3" thick, and the cross member where the rear shock linkage is mounted is adequate (and by adequate, I mean heavy duty). This is strong enough to take way more than anything I will ever do to this bike. There's also a short shifter with folding tip. I like that. :tup: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...998dc476_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c8a9b952_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5b921bbc_z.jpg The frame on this motorcycle seems excellent. Welds are good, and the powdercoating is still flawless after nearly two years (edit). Check out this headset, and the triple trees, and the size of those USD fork "bottoms". This is a stiff front end. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fafd45df_z.jpg |
And more
The front axel is based on the common standard hollow large diameter model (stiffer, not heavier), with a 19mm hex insert on one side, and 21mm bolt head on the other, and it is clamped to the fork bottoms, not tensioned with a bolt.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4046a835_z.jpg The front wheel is a DOT approved 21"x1.6 alloy rim. Rear is 18" x 2.15" DOT approved (tires both DOT approved). The spokes are much larger gauge than on the Storm or TBR7. The hubs are large cast alloy, especially the rear, which allows SHORTER heavy spokes for strength. This is a major structural improvement. My wheels are still round and spokes are still tight (nearly two years later). https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...531948d9_z.jpg The exhaust is ported out of the way of the lengthy rear wheel travel https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...547b1aba_z.jpg The overall shape and design is 100% enduro https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b17644be_z.jpg Maybe we will get an importer to bring the water cooled 300cc version soon. |
Rimlocks
Oh, one more thing... Red circles show the rimlocks.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1d6356dd_z.jpg |
Zs172fmm-3a
ZS172FMM-3A
This same engine is OEM on the earlier GPX FSE250 builds, and that bike costs over $5000. They've gone to a 6 speed engine now. And it is standard on the Templar X now. |
Great review of this bike! Helps those of us looking to buy but not knowing much about different brands/models.
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I missed out on the X, but really happy with the bike!https://share.icloud.com/photos/0beH...vr6WRjDBhoaF8w
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Here are a few comments: First, this is an enduro, and you are buying better off-road performance than a dual sport. The frame is stiff and fairly light, you can adjust the preload/rebound/compression (rear) and compression/rebound on the front shocks. The adjustable shocks deliver good control on these knobbies. Second, the engine is smooth and easy, delivering tractable torque from down low on up for off-road adventures, and the suspension/frame/wheels hold up to more abuse than anyone but a professional racer might expect, for about $2000 !!! :wtf: Third, Anyone that wants a really capable road bike should look into a 400cc or above engine. I have ridden big bore 4 cylinder bikes for my entire life, and NONE of these dual purpose 250s are really good road bikes. But it will get you to the dirt. But for me, the Templar X works. Personally, I don't think that any 4 stroke 250 dirt bike is "comfortable" on the road for more than an hour or two! If you are on two lane side roads and don't have to face Interstate traffic, then a 250cc bike might work for you. I guess it depends on your preferences. The only question after that is do you want knobbies and be able to survive on anything worse than hard pack with a little loose gravel or sand, or dual purpose tires. You can do some single track with dual sport tires, but it is a little dangerous (washing out, slipping). |
That's a great assessment and observation of the bike and its limitations. Yes, any of these dual sport 250's are woefully inadequate at speed.. even with a brief stint of ownership of a CSC RX4 with the 450cc engine i found it to be inadequate on the highway.. up an incline on rt 64 where the speed limit is 70mph would have me full-throttled with barely any left to overtake. I think the best mix is one of these 250's (ideally 6-speed variant) for gravel roads, trails and around town or back-roads and then a street machine for touring. I'm in the market for that and it needs to be able to handle 2-up.. i had a look at the SG400 and kpm 200 but sadly despite the price being right would not be well suited for that.
Anyway, im loving the Templar X and these 250's have been great to me thus far after a few years of owning a Brozz and then a Titan with little to no issues other than things coming loose from all the vibrations, par for the course i guess |
exploration choices
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Just learning, I've been dismayed at the INflexibility of cycles and, especially, cycle tires; SO surface-specific ... hardly conducive to exploring. The line between dual-sport vs. light Adventure bikes poses the decisions you mentioned in your last two sentences. Though unpaved backroad exploring might be the goal, reality is that some two-lane pavement is, often, a prerequisite. :hmm: |
Dual sprot tires are essentially road tires that provide some traction off road.
Knobbies aren't that great at cornering, but if you drive sensibly, they hold on pavement adequately. After all, you aren't running a road race with a 250cc engine anyway. The key is to keep out of the way, and get there safe. You will be rewarded when you reach the trail. I have trailered the Templar to trails. Anything farther than 50 miles away, worth it. You don't have to tear up the trails like a MX racer, but you want the TRACTION and capability of a real enduro when you get there. Knobbies. |
how much suspension travel is REALLY needed?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77iX4ASHSmE
This video astonished me! The video suggests that the rider is just a trail buddy i.e. not some pro, hired by the factory for an ad. Granted, this guy (black jacket) can REALLY ride; but, nevertheless, it got me thinking about what bikes can really do, when standing on the pegs, letting the bike 'float' under you. Suspension travel (5.1"/5.8") and ground clearance (7.1") specs suggest that a Versys X-300 has no business doing/attempting this! ??? What this guy is doing without suspension travel, measured in yards/meters, is astounding! Why look at the Versys X-300? ... because sometimes lengthy highway riding is required to get to scenic backroads. I haven't seen/read of many willing to do that on an enduro bike with lights and a plate on it. Maybe I can find some ~50/50 (or so) tire that can bite enough into loose surface and still be ridden (gingerly) on pavement without squirming out from under the bike in corners? Putting along at 60 mph on a highway is fine by me; at 71 I don't care if the whole world is passing me! I'm thinking, 'The slower you go, the more you see (other than the road/path)!' :tup: I suffer from wanderlust - not ego! :) If I were content to trailer a bike, why not just ride the Jeep, leaving the bike at home? ... a LOT more comfortable than riding in a 'space suit' (for protection) in heat/cold. |
Templar X Received...Working through some Bugs
I too appreciate these posts! I just got my Templar X in from Powersportsmax, it's all assembled, only one issue my buddy that helped assemble it and I have been trying to get worked out.
The carb seems to be running the bike too rich according to my more mechanically-inclined friend. It's naturally a little cold-natured, but as the bike warms up, it still doesn't want to idle, and it will get so hot that the exhaust will glow red hot at the cat-to-manifold side if you let it. We can't find any way to set/adjust the carb on this model other than an idle-set adjustment screw. I called Powersportsmax today and told them of our findings...their solution? Sending me another stock carb |
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It would be highly unusual if it were sent jetted rich. There could be a float bowl/inlet valve issue. You probably got a #40 pilot jet, and #120 main jet. These are probably OK at higher elevations. If you are below 1000 feet, those are on the lean side.
Red hot pipe is more likely to be a sign of lean jetting. Rejetting this carb is covered in the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in this video and pics section. Opening up the carb is on the post #7, and details are also on post #25. I posted detailed needle shim instruction somewhere here. I need to track it down and add that to the 2022 1/2 thread. Ah, I found it. See the next post... |
Needle shim instructions
The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifter (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb!
It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. While you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer) Here's how to shim the needle: You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe. Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean. Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm or so) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle. Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem:tup: Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted! Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!). Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done. |
Hap, Thumper, thank you all so much. I will definitely dig into this carb with my more mechanically-inclined buddy, hopefully this weekend when he's off work, and though he and I neither one are very much experienced on carb work, hopefully we can figure this one out with your knowledge and tutorials.
I was afraid where these are still fairly new to the market that there wouldn't be any help on particular things I run across, but glad to see there is a wealth of info here. Thanks again! I'll message back once I've gotten to try this out and see what my results are. As for the washer needed to do the job, is that something I should be able to find at my local hardware store? Not sure what diameter/circumference I need to look for but once we tear into it I'd say it will become a bit more apparent. |
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For jets, look at post 18 above
See the reference to posts #7 and #25 there? That's where the jet info is ( where to get them). |
getting close to that ideal 14.7:1 stoichiometric air:fuel mixture
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Pull the spark plug; the center electrode should be a very light tan color. Darker colors, including black, indicate a rich air:fuel ratio; a white center electrode indicates a lean mixture. If the engine is allowed to drop to idle speed, that center electrode can/will change color. To see what going on (i.e. what the air:fuel ratio is) UNDER LOAD, kill the engine at speed withOUT rolling off the throttle (remember: the center electrode color you see will reflect the air:fuel ratio when the ignition was killed; you don't want that to be the air:fuel mixture at idle), de-clutch, stop the bike and pull the plug for a look. Less oxygen at higher altitudes means less fuel is required to obtain that ideal 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio. Enjoy ... jetting carburetors is a fun (and rewarding) undertaking ... made even more fun when accompanied by PATIENCE (and perseverance). :yay: |
Headlight
How Good is the Headlight on this Bike Looks Kinda Small.
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Wished I would have bought this bike is steed of my TBR7,sounds like alot better bike. Its is my first china bike, didn;t know of this bike when I bought mine. Happy trails.
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2022 5 speed thread post
2 Attachment(s)
I got the red idle adjust knob for my 5 speed, $6.60 delivered
Attachment 28343 The bike is sitting under a tarp on the back porch under the deck. Same carb so it should fit just as well as the blue one I installed on the Blue 6 speed :) I posted this on my 2022 1/2 Temp X thread in video and pics section: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...4&postcount=53 (https://www.chinariders.net/showthre...t=31439&page=4) Attachment 28344 |
I have a red one, different brand?store? in flight along with some front suspension push button air bleeder valves, so I'll hopefully have those sometime in February to join in on the fun. I hadn't adjusted my carburetor much since the freeze but it was 80 today :wtf: and 81 tomorrow forecast so the idle screw needed a bit of adjustment to get it dialed in for today's weather. Still not a big deal as I just reach down and tweak it, but I do take my gloves off to do the small set screw. Hoping that I can do the larger knob with gloves on to save some time and gain some hot parts accidental touch protection.
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Templar 250x
Does the MCO say motorcycle on the Xpro Templar X250 or does it say atv. In KY it can't be registered if it says atv or anything related to off road as of 2022 and I'm mainly wanting to order for a commuter bike.
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Motorcycle
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Just putting it out there. Texas requires an inspection on all new vehicles before registration as well as annually on all renewals. No problems in Texas with Templar X 250.
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If you sell one of these to someone in another state, they will probably need ID/OD. Maybe you can get that without the inspector noting the off highway thing. Here, the ID/OD can be done at any inspection station (hundreds in the greater Kansas City area). |
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Texas like other states has its own rules and requirements for on road and off road use. That’s how you see people converting off road dirt bikes to get registered and plated for on street use. If you add everything the states regulators for the states DMV requires to be registered as a road vehicle then you have passed all of that state’s requirements. Under the federated model these agencies don’t have jurisdiction outside of their mission when originally created. Everything listed as required to be on the vehicle for it to be allowed to be registered and plated for Texas is already attached to the Templar X 250 out of the box. And the vehicle went through the states inspection requirement and the inspectors signed off on the vehicle having all the required on street gear attached and that the on street gear was tested and was found to be functioning properly at the time of testing. The annual inspection requirement for vehicles mostly catches vehicles with burned out signal bulbs etc, where the owner must make it work before it is recorded as passing in the states DMV computer registration system. By the time you actually apply in person at a state government agency or online all this is already recorded and logged for your vehicle. It’s also why you do it at the local county tax assessors office here rather than a DMV office as it’s passed all the requirements, now pay the state tax collector his due. The NHTSA is charged with writing and enforcing Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards as well as regulations for motor vehicle theft resistance and fuel economy. Safety standards affect the manufacturing process. The EPA mission states it is responsible for creating standards and laws promoting the health of individuals and the environment. |
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There are a few "light" adventure tour bikes, but they are kind of on the heavy side, and they are expensive. Most of them are pavement oriented:
-BMW G 310 GS 386 lbs (full tank), $6000, road oriented tires, barely dual sport (definitely pavement oriented tires) -2022 Honda CRF300L Rally 330 lbs (curb weight) $6200, dual sport tires (knobby-ish) -Kawasaki Versys-X 300 386 lbs (dry weight), $5900 ($6200 with ABS) dual sport tires (pavement oriented) -KTM 390 Adventure 387 lbs (wet weight), dual sport tires $6800 dual sport tires -CSC RX4 Adventure 450 lbs (wet weight), $5000 dual sport tires Contrasting lighter 250cc bikes that weigh 100lbs less, smaller engines, less comfortable on the road These bikes weigh about 280 lbs and make ~20hp: Lifan KPX 250 $3200 dual sport (pavement oriented, EFI aspirated) Zuumav Templar X $1900, DOT rated knobbies with a strong rack with mounting positions for side racks (off-road capable as is, carbureted). This thread is supposed to be about the Templar X build quality and assembly. Lots of info on the first couple of pages of in this thread. The reality is that only the KTM advertises their bike as off-road capable (well, Honda too). Pictures include real off-road situations, not just "dirt roads"!! But some people don't want to go on the trails, so these bikes are fine for forest service roads, and such. The exceptions are those that have the wrong tires! The KTM is the most powerful of the bunch without added weight penalty. The others always show them getting ridden in mountain twisty roads or along highway 101 (with the ocean in the horizon!). Adventure touring CAN include off road riding, but not for an older rider like me !! You must be nimble and strong, and able to lift that 400lbs back up if/WHEN you go down on the trail. The Honda is lighter than most, and a true contender for tractable off-road use. The Lifan KPX and Templar X are more in the "dual sports" category. KPX is shod with mild pavement oriented dual sports tires and has pretty tall seat height, while Templar is more of an enduro frame/suspension, and the tallest of the bunch at 36" seat height. But it is also the easiest to ride off road, while still having lighting to get registered for the road (but technically not a road bike). Templar may not be registered in all States, though most of us have had no issues. |
EXCELLENT, thorough summary, Thumper.
Have you rolled your Templar X over the bathroom scale? ... adding the measurements under each wheel? |
Still don't have a scale. I will try to take it to a loading dock with a scale when it warms up a bit.
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Anyone know where to get a service manual for the X7-CB250F?
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