So other then riding this bike , and a few small items to fix, I believe this project is about done.
One thing I noticed is the motor is very quiet with no happy tappy valve train noise . It runs great with about 30-40 miles on it now. Do you guys hear your valve tappy sound on these push rod motors? I plan on checking valve clearance after a few hundred miles. To lazy right now to take all the plastic and tank of again. :ohno: Haven't removed CAT yet, and only lifted needle up in carb 1 notch so far. I'm at 930' elevation. Pilot jet screw is out 1 1/2 turns. Any other suggestions or specific ideas you guys have on making this bike a very usable scoot for us? Thanks for all your help, it has been a fun project with my son and I'm sure it will provide miles of smiles for us. rj |
At the risk of being Debbie Downer, I encourage you to check the valves right away. Tappy valves are happy valves; they should make some noise. If there is zero clearance, you won't have the proper hydrodynamic wedge between the rocker and valve tip, which results in quick wear.
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Understood Weld, that's what my gut has been telling me to do, so i'll give it a look tomorrow, thanks rj
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What are you setting the valve clearance at guys on these pushrod motors?
And how tight are you running the drive chain? I have no manual to look at is why I ask. thanks rj |
For specs, Google CG125; they're the same for valve clearances.
For the chain on a new bike, I support the frame under the engine and remove the rear shock. I then place a scissor jack under the rear tire and raise it until the rear axle, swingarm pivot bolt and countershaft are all in a straight line. I then adjust the chain tension until it is just taut, without being tight. Since that is the point in the suspension travel where chain tension will be the tightest, I know that it will be looser elsewhere. Once the tension is locked down, I reinstall the rear shock and put the bike back on the ground. I then measure the slack at the mid-point of the chain and record it. Next time, you'll be able to simply check the tension with the bike on the side stand. It's a lengthy process the first time, but you'll know that it isn't too tight when the suspension is compressed. |
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I Looked at the pages humanbeing referenced after I set valves yesterday and before I saw these additional posts on here. :doh:
So I set them too .003" each. This gave me a little wiggle in the rockers where as before I couldn't feel any movement. Next question is I thought we set them to the F mark and not the T mark. Did I get this backwards? Will it make any difference? Runs really good. On a side note the valve cover came off with plenty of room whereas on the original motor I had to remove front motor mounts and tilt engine forward to get the cover off, bonus value. rj |
It probably doesn't matter, but I use the T mark. Good news on the valve cover clearance! That was a nice surprise.
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So I rode it around today and put another 30 miles on it. Everything seems fine except when coming to a stop I get a gravelly chain grinding noise that is bugging me. I took off the counter shaft sprocket cover and then the plastic chain guide thinking chain was rubbing on them. Then tightened the chain a little .
Still does it. Pushing around the parking lot and using the front brake off and on I can get the front brake to chatter like a cow having a calf. The outside part of caliper is bolted to the forks solidly , but the inner part that holds the pucks has play in it , more then my other bikes. So I'm wondering if this is normal to do this or if you guys have experienced it and came up with a fix? Thanks, Rob |
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