Some info here :tup:


http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...nge/index.html

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...ect/index.html

Summary -

*Low heat range ( hot plug) long insulator

*High heat range (cold plug) short insulator

*Plug electrode needs to be between 500c - 950c

*Plug below 500c = no self cleaning gets gummed up with carbon - spark leakage, incomplete combustion.

* above 950c = pre ignition - effects performance- plug damage and increased wear.

* Check your plug to determine wether you need hot or cold.

" Various circumstances such as engine conditions and driving conditions are rough measures for choosing a plug. For example, if strenuous driving is continued for a long time using normal plugs, the plug will overheat.
This is why the idea of a regular plug for a regular car doesn't work.
What's important is to inspect the condition of your current plugs, and then choose a plug accordingly."

:tup:

Great explanation katflap...
In short, no plug makes a hotter or colder spark than another (generally speaking). It's how quickly the plug sheds the heat. A hotter plug sincs heat a tad slower than a colder plug.

Thanks, Katflap! So that's what heat range is all about. I found a handy heat range cross reference here ...

https://www.densoproducts.com/learni...nversion-chart

Our stock plug is a Denso 22 heat range, which is equivalent to an NGK 7. NGK 8 is a 'colder' plug with a higher heat range.

:well last night it started raining so I pulled my bike under the carport behind my truck so the gauges wouldnt get soaked. this morning I jumped in the truck to go to work. I let yall figure the rest out...i figured it out after about 15 ft. :ohno:

I thinking that the gauges are still dry, but they mysteriously stopped working...

Score:
Truck 1
RX3 0

Ron, do you have a photo of your run over RX3?

jb

Ron, that sucks! So sorry :cry:

I'm guessing the engine guards got scuffed a bit.

well after not wanting to look at it yesterday I went out today to have a look and all i can say is wheww...these things are tuff. it hit on the right side and got pushed on the concrete driveway and all it did was break off my cup holder, bend the bracket on my aux. light, and bend the rear saddle bag guard forward about 3 inches. and scratch the guards up of course. A 3ft pipe wrench put the guard back in place , bent the light bracket back with my hand and a little sanding and some flat black header paint and all is good. just a little scuff on the bottom of the rear bag and some scratches on the foot peg is all. never even touched any of the orange paint.Basiclly it slid on the guards and footpeg.

That's amazingly little damage, Ron.

It speaks well for the RX3's engine and case guards.

Any of my other bikes would have been totaled.

jb

That's a relief! These bikes are built like tanks.

Ron - ditto what everyone else has written: Great that your RX3 didn't sustain any greater damage, and that the guards really do a nice job of protecting the bike!

Geez, that sucks Ron but I'm glad the damage was minimal. I had a lifted Ramcharger back in the day and people used to put shopping carts right in front of it. The shopping carts didn't fare as well.

I cut 3/32" out of the clutch activation arm, to make the clutch handle's "pull" work better, it's now much easier to adjust the clutch to engage/disengage and easier to find neutral.

I'd like to see the factory shorten the arm, as it works much better now