Yes indeedy I reckon just do a proper conversion to DC. Will check I've got that correctly worked out before I start.

I'm just going to order the w/c zong and get this moving. Like you say weld I can revisit the other engines some other time.

The stator and timing pickup output a/c wave forms . The stator output goes to a voltage rectifier , to transform it to dc voltage . This is used to feed the battery and dc accessories . The timing pickup will feed the ac waveform to the fuel injection controller , the fuel injection controller will output a dc signal to the dc CDI unit . Hope this helps . Here is a picture of a typical china bike regulator /rectifier . http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Wire-12V-D...35e186&vxp=mtr

Hi Ron thanks, I'm getting most of that!

Getting this all sorted remotely has taken some time, I've had Mr Yang, TBtrends and sellers of stuff all liaising with each other. Eventually all the parts including a new zong water cooled 200 and the EFI system made it to TB trends and they sent it all out in two parcels.

Yesterday was Christmas :clap: All the parts were ok inc the EFI, however, the engine has been damaged, poorly packaged and thrown up and down vans and cargo holds by the looks of it. Rocker cover is cracked and exhaust stud bent, oil everywhere :grr: Now awaiting responce......

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pshpa7nwgo.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psw91e6b0x.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pszhmgufoi.jpg

Will come back with more pics of the EFI when they've uploaded

I'm sorry to head about the damaged engine. :ohno:

At least those are relatively minor repair issues.

Indeed, nothing back from them yet. My plan now is to ask them to talk to the seller and try and find a new replacement OE rocker cover. I dont even mind paying for it but it's not easy to chat details with your average Chinese seller using translation so The least they can do for me is do some leg work.

Putting that aside I'm currently still messing with bodywork (when I get a chance anyway) and it'll be another week at least before I'm playing with the EFI. First thing is to make/adapt a manifold. I need a 45deg downward angle on the venturi and then mount the injector nozzle in it at the correct angle.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psl2q2uur1.png

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pscbooxv9h.jpg

So this is the injection pump/filter/injector unit. A little different from Rons, my injector is mounted remotely from the pump unit, this is the scooter system. the injector nozzle has a metal sleeve that it pushes into, this sleeve needs to be mounted in the manifold.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pszw4gjqvi.jpg

Got my own personalised ECU :)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psxlnqlgsu.jpg

Very nice . Also I see ,they did a clean job on the flywheel timing tab . I spotted the remote injector right away as being something , I had not seen . I like the personal ECU. :tup:

LOL the flywheel wasnt that tidy really, I gave it a once over and made it slightly neater but its sound and doesnt look like it'll fall off. It just happens that in the picture its not well lit and you cant see to ugly bits.

Slight problem though, the DC mag I got fits the old zong motor @90mm but the new engine has a 95mm flywheel. I'm gonna start a new thread on the DC conversion and what options are available (if I cant find one that already covers it fairly comprehensively anyway).

The Jib200! Love it! :D

Hi guys, back again. Progress has been slow and everything is happening in dribs n drabs. I start one thing then get stuck and have to address something else in order to carry on but then I go off on another tangent to work out all the other stuff I need to know to get that bit done. Its all on a shoestring which doesnt help much.

I've made the manifold now though and mounted the injector right at the top so it has line of sight and pointing straight at the inlet valve. Will need a thick gasket to try and isolate heat and vibration as much as pos I guess. The injection pump/filter/vapour separator unit is mounted beside the cylinder but forgot to take a picture.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psgkq80zfc.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ps5ocsuaxx.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ps2kds2vkt.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psfoeea40z.jpg


Back in a bit with wiring escapades!!

OK I'm just getting my head around the wiring at the moment so hopefully Ron can come along and blissfully guide me into not blowing anything up. There's not many unanswered questions as most things on this loom come with the correct gadget to plug into the ends. The ones I'm left with are for power and timing etc. I need to pull the side cover off the motor to see where each wire terminates really but the engine is sitting in the chassis at the moment and I need it there for a few more days. Don't think that cover comes off with the engine installed. I have three yellow wires and a group of three coloured wires coming out of the cases plus the block of wires for gear selection indicator. This is a DC conversion now, the DC magneto I bought is 5mm smaller than the one in the engine so will be too small to for that modded flywheel which is standard fitment on the engine. It's got a three faze 12 pole stator installed from factory so from what I understand I just need to eliminate the single coil that chucks out the AC feed to the standard AC CDI, the other 11 coils making plenty of juice for charging.

Wires:

The upgraded rec/reg I bought has 6 wires. The three yellows going to the yellows coming out the engine to be converted to 14 ish volts DC. Ok got that bit.

The rec/reg then has a green (for earth) and a red for charging power to the batt/loom. Cool......

The last wire on the rec/reg is red with white stripe. Translating the original ad with Google tells (I think) that this wire is for powering something else for extra loveliness and I think I can just tape it up but would still like to understand it's proper function none the less. They talk about highlight line' for upgraded headlights etc but I can't work out if the're saying it's instead of a relay or that you need to use a relay? Seems like the seller is quoting higher output figures for the 'highlight' line.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pse5do4cat.jpg

Here's the ad:

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=17671820013


The other three coloured ones coming from the engine are green, blue (with white stripe) and black with red stripe.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psdqsledvz.jpg

I need to connect two of these to the injection system loom and those two on the efi loom are blue and green with white stripes, the black one on my other magneto comes from the single coil so logic tells me to exclude the black/red one as the AC power for old CDI. I need to check this first though. Green with white stripe on the efi loom is an accessory ground I think.

And now digest!

Brace yourselves I'm already writing my next incredibly torturous post :D

The wires for connection to the bikes own loom (power) are doing my head in a bit too so will need to contact Mr Yang again. there are four in this group, two green earths, one red with grey stripe and one black. Then in a typical fashion from a few chinese looms I've seen they supply a plug with tails for joining this power connection to the bike but the wires come out of the plug different to what they went in as. I dont know if this is in some way an effort to normalise the colour coding to be the same as western conventions????

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pscxmri9o8.jpg

So this power connection plug has the red/grey, black and two greens going into it from the efi loom on the other side of the this plug (bike loom side) the red/grey wire turns into a green with white stripe, the black turns into a red, one green turns into a blue with white stripe and the other green remains green!

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pszjbxgkqq.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pszd3tyozb.jpg

The red/grey also goes to the MIL light. The wiring diagram shows the other side of the MIL light joining the black wire going this plug. To add further confusion the diagram shows the MIL light after the plug not before it. Looking at the diagram it looks like the (efi loom/pre plug colours) the red/grey and black wires both terminate at ignition live but it's not laid out the same as the diagram in real life. Looking down at the bottom right of the diagram is this the on/off switch I wonder?

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pscmpnpfy7.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ps4k6kex0o.jpg

Im just trying to work out how to get Google to translate this!

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psgx6pfbfp.jpg

Still awake anyone?

There's also a plug labelled tacho on the loom drawing, I need to ask if this is to connect to a tacho on the bike in which case I don't need to use this plug because I have no tacho, my data logger does all that and has a pickup on the HT lead. My understanding is that the mag pick up is where the efi gets all its timing/rpm info from. The tacho plug has blue & green with white stripe wires just the same as the mag pickup wires.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psxgfhkeoz.jpg

Coma commences.........

I'm quite amazed by this process. I hope Mr. Yang is able to shortcut this process for you.

To be fair I think I'm making it sound much more complicated than it is, partly by my own electrical ignorance:doh:

OCR it 1st. M$ Office Lens app is quite OK for chinese.

Thank you humanbeing I will give that a try.

To summarise all of the mumbo jumbo I've posted up there I have only a few unanswered questions. The main ones being:

1. What are the two live wires for in the plug that connects the efi harness to the bike? Black and red/grey. Mr Yang has replied and said the black is ignition live and the red is live for MIL light. Above I have noted that the diagrams shows these wires are connected but this still doesnt answer why a red/grey terminates at the plug as well as the MIL light?

2. Can I disregard the plug on the efi loom for tacho? Mr Yang says (amongst other things) this may be connected to the tacho so I think yes I can disregard it.

Then there's the three wires from the mag/pickup. Need to pull the cover off to confirm which one I Dont need.

Oh and the extra wore on the reg...........

I don't mind dealing with these issues, it educates me along the way and helps me understand more. These are small things compared to some of the other hurdles this project has presented.

Think I'll go and poke Ron :D

Sorry that one dragged on a bit too didn't it

On the contrary, your pictures and descriptions are excellent. Anyone following your plan in the future will be able to get all needed answers.

Ron has said he'll have a read through and look at his bike when he gets a chance, he's as busy as me by the sounds of it.

Meanwhile, I've got the ECU mounted and a load of wires stuffed in my electrical box now. This sidecar is slowly looking more and more like it might even work one day! Will do some more pics later today.

Hey Jib i have my covers off . Tell me the wires you need help with and i'll have a look and see if i can get pictures .

Hi Ron

Thanks for popping in, sorry you've probably been standing there next to your bike for quite a few hours now!

The main point of interest is the plug that connects the efi to the bikes power supply. It's the plug in post #55, there's a black wire which seems to be for ignition live and a red/grey wire which I'm a bit confused about. The two green being earth.

I also don't have ignition as such on my bike just on off button on the bars. Maybe in should introduce something ? I also use a lanyard kill switch but this generally would stay in place all the time.

Ok Here We Go , I changed the connector on mine to suit my needs . Hopefully you can see the picture well . I see your pigtail changes wire colors ,so I am going to talk about wires colors before the pigtail . Both Green can go to chassis ground or battery negative . Black Wire Needs to go to a Keyed or switched positive power source I.E. battery power, And also. you may be able see in the picture tagged for the power side of the led /CEL . Red is only used as the negative side of the led /CEL (malfunction indicator light ) I broke the CEL that was sent to me >so just used another led , I am not sure it was necessary . But in my thoughts since the red wire goes straight back to the controller , grounding the CEL flash . I added a resister of few hundred ohms . LEDs do not need much power to work and I think keeping amp loads to the controller low reduce heat in the controller. small resister hidden in the connector . :tup:

Ok thanks for that. I think what has thrown me here a bit is that my harness is slightly different for some reason. Yours looks like it's hooked up exactly like the wiring diagram I posted somewhere up there ^^^^^^ but on mine it has the same four wires terminating at the plug but in addition it has another short spur coming off with black and red/grey wires terminating at another plug, on the other side of this additional plug was the LED connected directly into the opposing side. I have now cut the LED away from the terminals and soldered a length of wire between them so I can have the LED up on the bars. The LED has a resistor in line under the heatshrink which I assume is correct.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psnludhm9r.jpg

So these appear to be duplicate wires. I've just removed the tape and can confirm these wires are joined to the others.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ps75vgo01e.jpg

So am I right in thinking I don't need to do anything with the red/grey in the main plug do you think?

(So am I right in thinking I don't need to do anything with the red/grey in the main plug do you think? ) I Would say That is correct . No need for the extra red/grey on the 4 pin connection

Ok thanks. That's bizarre that they should put that extra wire in!

Whilst your about I have another couple of quick ones.

The tacho plug on the efi harness is just to connect up to the bikes tacho yes? In which case I don't need to use it.

Coming from magneto I have blue, green, and black wires all with stripes. Still haven't had the cover off but I'm thinking the blue n green ones connect to the same colour on the efi harness and the black one is the AC feed for an AC cdi which I don't need. Sound sensible? (Although I will check in due course).

The efi has a main power line with fuse, I assume this should be permanently connected to the battery or the ecu will forget what it's learnt.

Lastly, are you using the fitting on the throttle body which looks like it should be a vaccum feed for something?

I'll Do the easy answers first . No need to use the tach wirews for it to run .
I am not using any vacume ports ,it's pluged off .


Now the Wires from the case . Blue and green wires are needed for your timing pickup , It is AC ,But the controller converts it to DC for the CDI.


I have 3 other wires from the engine case , Pink , Yellow , Black with red tracer . You'll see in the pictures Only the pink and yellow going to the voltage regulator /rectifier . 2 other wires at the voltage regulator /rectifier are green ,that will be a ground and the red will be dc voltage output i.e. 12v

That's brilliant thanks mate. It looks like I'm on the right path then, what I've done so far is as per your set up bar the reg/rec. My old a/c zong was the same as yours with yellow and pink. The new motor has what I think is a three faze magneto and has three yellows, no pink. I got a matching reg with three yellow input wires.

So now I think I'm in a possition to finish the wiring, I just need to have a look into finding a smaller battery and know where it's going.

Lastly about the main live for the ecu, is this permanently attached to the battery? I assume to maintain memory.

Oh and thanks so much for taking the time to do those pictures

Yes you can see in picture 2 above . I have it connected to the always hot side of the starter solenoid. same as straight to battery positive . On This bike and my goldwing ,I use 8 cell Lifep04 battery packs ordered from China. In fact both bikes start faster then with the original lead/acid batteries . I ordered 10 at a time on alibaba.com . End cost was about 65usd each including shipping and import / customs fees

Ah yes, sorry I totally missed that the live on the starter solenoid.

I'm now battery shopping!!

Thanks again Ron

Mr Yang has now said that the ECU will NOT forget stuff when completely disconnected from power which is good.

You did not miss anything , I was just using an existing picture to show it. I forgot to put the power hook up in the text

Did it ever run?