Most likely the original cable end was the type that has a Teflon sleeve around it to let it pivot easier in the lever. That sleeve was either not installed at the factory or it came apart and fell out. The new cable should have the correct standard end to fit the lever. Will find out if I can figure out how to get one down here in Arizona.

In the mean time I removed the clutch cable from the Trail 90 I have with me and improvised a way to make it work using a spare spoke from the 90.

Another thing to add. The lower ball joint rubber covers have cracked open which will allow dirt to enter and wear to occur. Really thought they would last a year at least. I've covered the cracks with liquid electrical tape for now but need to find a source for rubber covers that will last a bit longer.

grease
 

if you want to do something about the ball joints... drill a hole and add a grease nipple... to keep dirt out.. you might be able to find boots for them on line or ebay.. mxmottoparts?? but usually not.. the whole a arm.. replacement.. lots of dealers for the cable.. ship it to you.. eagleparts.com is the TAOTAO PARTS dealer in the USA..

Grease nipples won't work in the type of ball joints or tie rod ends used on the Rhino, at least I couldn't get them to work. I tried. They use a plastic insert to keep tension on the ball and there isn't enough room to screw in a zerk. I did have to replace the lower A arms/ball joints on my ATA250D last year because they were worn out.

Lots of sellers on Ebay for the clutch cable and one is on the way, I hope. Its difficult to get packages delivered down here in Arizona while camping out for the winter. Post offices in the area won't do general delivery.

I should be clear that the problems I've had with the Rhino are very minor and do not take away from the great bang for the buck you get when you buy one. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat. It might be useful for someone thinking about buying one to know what little things they may have to deal with.

grease nipplie
 

is the bottom of the ball joint not steel??? .. it is hard steel ,.,, need a good bit to drill.. and then tap.. I have done it before.... or one of those grease needles... to insert grease... to wash out the dirt and water that gets in there..

The ball joint bottoms are sheet steel crimped in place. Easy to drill but there isn't enough space between the sheet steel and the ball itself for threads to bite and hold the zerk. Needles through the rubber would work if the rubber would stay in tact, but it's falling apart. I'll figure something out when I get home in March. In the meantime I've slathered some liquid electrical tape over the cracks.

Got the new clutch cable and will install it today.

Swing arm cracked at about 250 hrs, much of it bouncing over large rocks. Cracked in the same place as the ATA250D. Had it welded by the same shop in Arizona so it probably won't happen again. Good thing to check before every ride.

Do you have a picture of the crack on either ATV so we know where to look for it?

I'm a little concerned about mine with all the towing I do with the Rhino.

I didn't get a pic of the latest crack before welding but here's the ATA250D crack starting in the same place, just in front of the sprocket.

http://chinariders.net/picture.php?a...&pictureid=635

Thanks for the pic.. much appreciated.

Right front outer wheel bearing disintegrated yesterday. About 280 hours on the quad. Bearing is a 6003-2RS. Sourced one locally and ordered several to keep on the shelf.

When calling around for parts I found the pricing very interesting. Carquest $39, NAPA $35, the Yamaha shop $117 (not kidding), eBay $10 for 10 bearings with free shipping.

Well, I experienced my very first, completely unacceptable failure with my Rhino.
I found the taillight hanging by the wires.
I may have to have a couple tonight to deal with the depression and utter frustration.

bearing failures can be reduced greatly by cleaning and greasing after each ride but we all know most people won’t do that lol. I let my kids ride about 3 hrs on there brand new quads before checking the bearings. I found that almost every bearing had little to no grease in it. I since bought spares and checked a few right out of the package to find the same thing barely any grease in them. I highly recommend staying on top of greasing every moving part

One of the rear axle bearings froze up and the axle spun inside it which damaged the axle. 311 hours on the Rhino. Ordered a new axle and bearings for about $95 total.

TXPower sent you a new carb? The first one I just assembled is leaking from the overflow. Do you think they will do the same for me? TIA