gearin, cables, and other stuff.
From reading forum threads on Hawks, I get the feeling that newer riders don't really understand the benefits of getting their cable runs as "sweet" as possible. Let's start with the clutch first. The less tight bends you have, the better it will work. A six inch longer cable can make a world of difference. There are cable "kits" that allow you to make your own cables up. This is a good skill to have, and once you have made one succesfully, it's like riding a bicycle - once you done it, you never really forget how to do it. When you adjust the clutch, start at the transmission end. It is imperitive to have some slack (about 1/8th inch) here to prevent clutch slippage, which leads to clutch over heating, which leads to clutch plate warpage, and that means having to rebuild the clutch. Then, up at the handle bar end is where you fine tune the clutch adjustment to get that 1/8th inch of free play at the handle bar clutch lever. The throttle cable, same story. Easy runs. No drag in the cable. Next to no slack in this cable, though. Just a leetle bit, Senor. In the Eastern USA, utterly flawless throttle control is directly related to rider satisfaction. And so is flawless carburetor tuning, because you need a perfectly smooth flow of power right from idle on up. Out west, people usually ride off road faster, because the terrain is so different, so low end throttle response is not so important.
Now gearing. If there is anything harder to gear than a dual-sport, I don't know what it is. You can either gear it for the highway, or the woods, or try to get both at the same time, but good luck on that. One way that I suggest is to carry a spare front sprocket with you and change gearing when you get to the woods. A 17-50 rear combo is not the ultimate, but maybe you can live with it. A 13 or 14-50 combo will work ok in the woods. Make up your chain and extra links of chain to make the switch. Be sure to take two extra master links, and a cranked link with you so you don't have to change the rear wheel position on the swing arm. |
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Or buy a bike with a wide ratio 6 speed box and the gearing issue goes away... They need to copy the TTR250 or DRZ250 motor both super reliable , low maintance motors that yer can reliy on to always get yer back home... .. |
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in a duel sport & the motors they are copyed from have a wide ratio... wide ratio is the norm for bikes used on the road... just needs that 6th gear slightly higher.. The only duel sport bike I can think off with a close ratio box is the Suzuki DRZ400.... but it was designed as a dirt only bike then it was made road legal 2 years after it was first put in production....And it's been it's main issue ever since for road use.. and it's a 5 speed... It's a good bike... but it could of been a great bike with the right gear box.. ... |
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1 2.909 2 1.867 3 1.389 4 1.150 5 0.9545 Primary reduction is 3.33 to one. |
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Also, I'm wondering if anyone with a Hawk has tried to replace the paper air filter with some of the flat dual stage foam that Uni makes? Might have to cobble some kind of screen/frame to support it, but seems like it might be a good way to have the air filter be reuseable. I'm interested in a pair of Hawks for my son and I, but the lack of response I hear from the distributor regarding parts is a bit of a red flag. I get that most online parts suppliers are not going to have any parts for this bike, but there should absolutely be a source from the distributor or manufacturer without buying 1000 widgets. Things like gaskets and seals etc are things they have on hand to build the bikes in the first place. If not, perhaps CSC has some parts that will directly replace from the TT250. They seem to have done a good job on their site listing parts and prices that they offer. |
To OUTERLIMITS
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No worries
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OK, since we are totally going off through rails here's one
http://www.kiiitv.com/news/local/spe...foot/351915533 http://www.kiiitv.com/img/resize/con...preset=534-401 |
My cousin, Marron (brown) Grande from Bee County Texas :lmao:
Rojo |
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